The ancient El Jem amphitheatre is 3rd century structure, so symbolic of Tunisia that it features on the 20-dinar note, usually receives about 190 000 visitors a year, but in 2020 only 45 000 came, and so far this year it has been deserted most of the time. Most tourists come to Tunisia for its long white beaches,but it also offers ruined Roman cities, cork forests, medieval mosques, Star Wars film sets and Saharan oases. Tourism normally accounts for about a tenth of the economy. Its collapse after militants attacked a beach and a museum in2015 caused an economic crisis, but the sector had been recovering before Covid-19 hit. Obay’s shop in El Jem is a trove of copper trays, African masks, rustic chests, replica Roman figurines, Berber rugs and prettily painted window shutters.