The southern Cape coastline from Hermanus to the Garden Route is known to be one of the best places in the world to watch whales. As hundreds of Southern Rights return to the calm, warm waters to breed and calve after a year of feeding in the frigid Southern Ocean, tourists descend upon the area to catch a glimpse of these gentle giants of the deep.

Whether it’s from a boat or the shore you are almost certain to come across whales frolicking in Walker Bay, which stretches from Hermanus to the rocky Danger Point and Gansbaai. Dyer Island Cruises holds the licence for boat-based whale-watching in this area and their state-of-the-art boat, the Whale Whisperer, is perfectly suited for close encounters with the whales.

Each tour lasts about two-and-a-half-hours, and the boat is allowed to approach to within 50 metres of the whales (unlicensed boats have to remain 300 metres away). These naturally inquisitive creatures often come so close to the boats that the spray from their blowhole drenches the boat! The main whale season runs from June to December, when the whales come close in-shore to breed and calve, and to get a close-up view of these gentle giants a boat trip is definitely the way to go.

The world’s smallest floral kingdom
One of the nicest, if not the cheapest, places to stay in the area is the Grootbos Private Nature Reserve; a vast tract of Overberg hillside dedicated to the conservation of the world’s smallest floral kingdom, the ‘fynbos’. The delicate Ericas, proud Proteas and hardy Restios (the three plant families that make up ‘fynbos’) are often overlooked in favour of the larger tourist attractions in the bay, but are well worth a visit themselves.

Grootbos conserves over 1000 hectares of pristine fynbos, containing more than 600 species of flowering plants. Huge stands of extravagant proteas paint the hillsides in hues of orange, white and red; while a cheerful cacophony of birdlife erupts in the foliage as you wander through the reserve. Gazing out over Walker Bay from the hilltops it's not uncommon to see whales breaking the surface of the smooth Atlantic Ocean.

The reserve offers a wide variety of eco-experiences, from nature walks with trained guides and horse-riding, to exploring the archaeological treasures of the nearby coastline. One of the most special places on the reserve is the 25 hectare Milkwood forest which gave the reserve its name; Grootbos meaning ‘big forest'. Said to be one of the largest forests of Milkwood trees in the world, the ancient arms of these huge trees give the forest an eerie atmosphere as their gnarled limbs seem to almost ensnare the unwary walker.

A far more comfortable place to spend an afternoon is at the luxurious lodge itself. While each of the 10 cottages enjoys under-floor heating, a lounge with fireplace and a luxurious bathroom, the private balcony is the place to sit back and soak up the deep silence, broken only by the fervent birdsong from the garden. The spectacular fynbos garden surrounding the lodge ofers a myriad hidden pathways that meander through the colourful profusion of indigenous flora.

The magnificent gardens are maintained by students and staff from ‘Green Futures’, the horticultural and life-skills college based at Grootbos. Begun by the owners of the reserve as a community upliftment project, the college provides practical-based training for unemployed people in the fields of fynbos landscaping, horticulture and eco-tourism. But apart from looking after the aromatic fynbos gardens that attract birds and relax the guests, the team also maintains a large herb and vegetable garden to supply the lodge kitchen.

Meals are served in the lodge restaurant around the imposing central fireplace, and while lunch and breakfast are nothing out of the ordinary, the dinner menu, which changes daily, is fairly adventurous. Expect dishes like fresh Vegetable tartlets or Grilled calamari for starters, while meat-eaters will enjoy ‘African’ touches like the expertly done Impala. Vegetarians shouldn’t be worried though, as they are spared the ubiquitous Vegetable platter with interesting creations such as Potato pancakes with a ragout of green vegetables.

The wine list has a good selection of local vineyards, and even includes a selection of vintage South African reds, but is unfortunately rather over-priced. You won’t find a bottle of red for under R120, and expect to pay up to R40 for a small glass of the recommended wine at dinner. R62 for a bottle of water and small glass of wine left a decidedly sour taste on the palate after what was an otherwise pleasant meal.

The Cape Floral Kingdom, of which ‘fynbos’ makes up the largest part, is paraded in all its splendour on the slopes of Grootbos reserve. As a whale watching destination and eco-getaway, Grootbos is certainly one of the most enjoyable destinations in the region, but be warned; it doesn’t come cheap. Great outdoor activities and luxury accommodation might make it all worthwhile, but this is definitely a place for those once-off special occasions.


Grootbos Private Nature Reserve
  • Grootbos is situated between Stanford and Gansbaai on the southern Cape coastline, approximately two hours drive from Cape Town.
  • For reservations and more information, contact the reserve at info@grootbos.co.za or by telephone on +27 28 384 0381.
  • Rates start at R1700 per person per night, inclusive of accommodation, three course dinner, breakfast buffet, horse riding, guided walks or drives in the reserve and various maps of the area or for self guided walks.