The West Coast of South Africa has always held a particular allure for me. Whether it’s the quaint fishing villages clustered in the few sheltered bays, or the rugged coastline perpetually pounded by the freezing Atlantic Ocean, the area has a particular charm not found anywhere else in South Africa. A far cry from the picture-postcard image of coastal beauty, don’t come here expecting swaying palm trees and balmy tropical evenings. Although the white beaches do stretch on forever, the icy sea pummelling the shore mean only the most courageous will brave a swim.

The most westerly part of this coastline, and indeed the Western Cape as a whole, is located on the windswept point of Cape Columbine. Declared a nature reserve in 1973, the area has been set aside to conserve the indigenous sandveld-fynbos vegetation endemic to the area. The normally drab hills come to life in spring with the annual explosion of colourful wildflowers, carpeting the area in a bright tapestry of blooms.

Named for the British ship "Columbine" that was wrecked just north of the point in 1829, the reserve is also home to the last manned lighthouse to be built in South Africa. Usually the first lighthouse sighted by shipping arriving from Europe, the lighthouse came too late for the eight or so ships that met their fate on the rocks during the 19th century. Driven ashore by the rough seas and flung into the icy water, miraculously not a single sailor lost his life in any of the shipwrecks.

Originally built in 1936, the lighthouse is now run by the Ports Authority and the regular tours (conducted by Nico, the enthusiastic lighthouse-keeper) offer a fascinating insight into the history and workings of the lighthouse network along the South African coastline. Towering 80 metres above sea level, the light from a single 400 watt bulb is magnified by the carefully crafted lens, itself weighing nearly two tons. From this single bulb, the light is focussed and magnified to emit a beam which is visible for over 80 kilometres.

The Beach Camp
Although the nature reserve has an official campsite at the amusingly named Tietiesbaai (supposedly named after two suggestively-shaped nearby hills), a far better option to the overcrowded campsite is The Beach Camp, situated a kilometre or two from the lighthouse. Nestled on the northern side of the reserve, and thus well sheltered from the notorious south-easterly winds that blow in summer, the rustic camp has all you need for a few days of serious relaxation.

Accommodation is in one of the eight dome tents or wooden A-frame structures, each of which is fitted with simple wooden beds. Sheets and pillows are provided, but you need to bring along your own sleeping bag or duvet. Although not really big enough to spend much time in, the A-frames save you the hassle of bringing and pitching your own tent, and are more than comfortable enough for an afternoon nap and a good night’s sleep. What they lack in frills, they more than make up for in location, with the door of my A-frame a mere four metres above the high tide mark. As the beach camp website proudly proclaims: “Any closer and you’d be wet!” Hot water showers will bring a smile to any die-hard camper’s face, while the communal lapa and beach bar provides a welcome shelter from both the wind and sun.

A whale breaks the surface
The camp is run by Hannes Kleynhans (a self-proclaimed professional beach bum) who is passionate about the environment from his years of working in nature conservation. His knowledge of the fauna and flora in the area is impressive, and he’ll eagerly tell you about his latest outing to identify and record rare species in the reserve. When not running the camp or searching for rare flowers, he also runs guided sea-kayaking trips in the waters surrounding the reserve. The nutrient-rich Benguella current which flows along this coastline means that the sea in this area literally teems with life, and you have a good chance of spotting seals, dolphins, whales and a wide array of bird ife.

The famous 'red gold' on the braai
However, if there’s one thing the West Coast is undoubtedly famous for, it’s the seafood. Black mussels are plentiful on the rocks surrounding the camp (you can take 30 per day, but make sure you’ve got a permit), or cast a line in the early evening and see what bites. If your luck is out for the day Hannes will happily whip together a slap-up seafood dinner in the evening, complete with fresh fish, crayfish (in season) and the best seafood potjie you will ever taste. Stuffed to the gills with fresh seafood, all that’s left to do is relax around the fire, lulled by the gentle strumming of a guitar that some wandering traveller has brought out.

If your fluffy white bathrobe is your most prized possession or you object to eating your seafood on enamel plates, then perhaps the Beach Camp at Cape Columbine is not for you. But if you’re looking for back-to-basics relaxation in one of the most beautiful, untamed, stretches of coastline South Africa has to offer, then Cape Columbine is without doubt the place to head for.


The Beach Camp at Cape Columbine
  • Accommodation is R110 per person per night for a dome tent, or R155 per person for the wooden A-frames, including breakfast.
  • A hearty cooked breakfast is R35 a head.
  • A one hour sea-kayak trail with all equipment included costs R110 per person.
  • For more information visit The Beach Camp website, or email info@ratrace.co.za. You can also call Hannes directly on +27 82 926 2267.