Travelling back and forth along the N2 in the Western Cape, I wonder how many travellers have, like me, driven past Swellendam and thought to themselves: "I must stop off there sometime…"

The thought had crossed my mind nearly every time I rushed past on the way to somewhere else, but eventually I managed to take the time to explore this historic town.

Republic of Swellendam?
Swellendam is the third oldest town in South Africa, and was first established in 1745 by Baron Gustav van Imhoff from the Dutch East India Company. Concerned by the "moral degeneration" of the burghers who were trekking further and further into the interior, Van Imhoff established the town to keep an eye on them. Not that this was done for altruistic reasons of course. The independent burghers were neglecting to pay levies to the company based at the Cape, and were fiddling their annual tax returns!

This rebellious streak came to a head in 1795 when Swellendam declared itself a free Republic, and for a brief moment joined the list of the world's capital cities. The claim for independence was quickly extinguished though when Britain took control of the Cape colony shortly afterwards. Nonetheless, the town became a prosperous rural centre, due mainly to the skill of its wainwrights (wagon makers) as well as being the last 'civilised' port of call for trek-boers heading into the interior.

Swellendam's main attraction is the Drostdy Museum (entry R12), situated on the outskirts of town. Originally built in 1747 as the residence and offices of the magistrate of Swellendam, it was converted into a museum in 1939, and is certainly one of the finest country museums in South Africa.

The museum is actually a collection of historic buildings arranged around a picturesque 19th century Cape garden, with the Drostdy itself as the centrepiece. With typical Cape Dutch lime-washed walls and green shutters, the cool interior houses a fine collection of Cape furniture from the early 1800’s.

Klippe Rivier Country House
A historical building in its own right, but more importantly a wonderful place to stay the night, is the Klippe Rivier Country House. A fine example of Cape Dutch architecture, the homestead was built between built 1820 and 1825, and was probably designed by acclaimed architect Louis-Michael Thibault.

Stepping into the cool quiet of the voorkamer (front room) is like stepping back in time. The main house and guest rooms have been comfortably furnished by the owner with an impressive collection of Cape antiques, paintings and Africana. Feeling much like a Victorian country house crossed with African hunting lodge, it has an eclectic, yet welcoming feel. Molly, an exuberant Irish wolfhound and the 'chief receptionist' will be sure to give you a warm welcome!

The manor house retains the original yellowwood flooring and ceilings, and the high standard of craftsmanship is understandable given that the house was the family home of past presidents Steyn and Reitz of the Free State Republic. Original plans of the homestead adorn the walls, and along with the eclectic collection of art and antiques, the house feels steeped in history. One can easily imagine colonial ladies and gentlemen having many a soiree in the lavishly decorated rooms. There is even a piano with a note inviting guests to feel free "to tinkle the ivories".

Set away from the main house is the romantic "Westby-Nunn" cottage, which has a private verandah overlooking a sweeping lawn leading down to the farm dam. Decorated in an ethnic style with a king size bed, the wonderful array of African art and collectables create a homely atmosphere.

A three-course table d'hote dinner is served in the main house each evening, and chef Sunelle Theron has come up with some wonderfully original dishes. Fresh produce is selected daily and there is a choice of two dishes for each course. Klippe Rivier also offers an extensive, and very reasonably priced, wine list.

In the bright sunshine of morning the verandah is without doubt the best place to be to enjoy a full country breakfast while gazing towards the distant mountains. Before you know it you'll be back amongst the hordes hurtling back and forth along the N2, reminding yourself to stop off again in this historic heart of the Overberg.

    Klippe Rivier Country House
  • Klippe Rivier is situated just outside Swellendam, approximately 2½ hours drive from Cape Town.
  • There are six luxury rooms and one cottage available, ensuring that there are never more than 14 guests at any one time. Room rates are R850 per person per night on a bed & breakfast basis. Klippe Rivier also offers discounts in the low-season.
  • Visit the Klippe Rivier website to find out more and to make a reservation.