If you’re anything like me, chances are that when you think of Hermanus, you probably also think of whales. That’s no coincidence, of course; Hermanus claims to offer “the best shore-based whale watching in the world”.

So when we drove into Hermanus one Saturday morning we were pretty determined to see at least one whale frolicking in Walker Bay.

And our impatience was soon rewarded!

Having found our guesthouse, the Whale Cottage, which took a little longer to find than anticipated, due largely to the fact that someone (okay, me) had lost the directions, we plonked our bags down and went walkabout on the Old Harbour.

This untidy jumble of rocks, though long since abandoned as a working harbour, is still the focus of many activities in the resort town. Today the sun was out, and so were the tourists, all standing or sitting, gazing fixedly at the ocean. Occasionally they’d all whoop unintelligibly – I put it down to an acute hysterical disorder induced by being on holiday.

Just then an enormous southern right whale leapt right out of the water a mere ten metres from us! We whooped like no one’s ever whooped before, and I like to think we showed those tourists a thing or two.

But Hermanus is about far more than just whales. After a leisurely lunch at Bientang's Cave we decided to take some horses for a quick spin on Grotto Beach, which stretches for a magnificent 12 kilometres of dazzling white sand.

My partner in crime had never been on a horse before, and, truth to tell, was a little apprehensive about the experience. But Mike from Horse Trail Safaris soon sorted her out and before long she was making friends with her grey mare.

The nice thing about Horse Trail Safaris is that they cater for both beginners and experienced riders, and are more than happy to tailor-make a trip to your requirements. We settled for a gentle walk on the beach, but it’s also possible to do full day trips or trails in the surrounding Hemel-en-Aarde mountains.

Having worked up an appetite, we were looking forward to dinner at the decidedly posh Burgundy Restaurant. I was delighted to discover that we were enthusiastically encouraged to walk through town in the dark, without a care in the world. It's been a while since I last enjoyed that simple pleasure - but then I'm a city girl after all, and far too used to crime and grime.

We were thoroughly wined and dined that night, but overcome with sleepiness, were forced to banish any thoughts of painting the town red. We waddled home with distended bellies, completely at peace with the world, thinking of nothing more than our waiting bed.

Sea kayaking

Walker Bay Adventures run kayaking trips in Walker Bay and the nearby lagoon. Beginners are welcome, and it’s a fantastic alternative to traditional boat-based whale watching. Contact them on (028) 314 0925 or 082 739 0159.
Next morning I woke up early to find the weather had changed and a rather windswept town awaited me. Hermanus' much-written-about "champagne air" had a decided nip to it. Nevertheless, we were determined to take a last look around the town, and so took a leisurely stroll after breakfast.

The famous Cliff Path lay just outside the Whale Cottage door, and it really is worth a second look. The path runs the length of the town, hugging the coast all the way, and offers spectacular views of sea and mountain...and whales too, of course.

We poked around the craft market, held in Market Square, adjoining the Old Harbour. Many of the restaurants, craft shops and art galleries are clustered around this area, and it's your best bet if you're looking for a souvenir to take home.

Finally, we retired to a convenient coffee shop and gazed out at the sea... and then, well, I'm afraid we had to collect our bags and go home. Every holiday's inevitable ending.

Book accommodation at The Whale Cottage Hermanus.