The harsh rocky landscapes, the crisp fresh air, and the gentle breathing of the mountain river seems to wash all the stress away. It's a perfect getaway from the hustle and bustle of the city.
It did, however, take my city slicker companion and I sometime to get used to the quiet. We kept glancing at our cellphones expecting them to pierce the silence with their polyphonic clarity. Silly us, you’ll get no cellphone reception out here. What you will get at Sanddrif in the heart of the Cederberg is something for everyone.
Don't take the Porsche!
All in all it's just under four hours from Cape Town to the Cederberg. A scenic 200 kilometres north along the N7 takes you just past Citrusdal, but from here you want to leave yourself a good hour to do the last 50km dirt road stint — and for goodness sake don't do it in the Porsche.
Nestled on the banks of the Dwars River, at the foot of the dramatic Wolfberg, lies Sanddrif — a collection of cottages and campsites that's an ideal base for your mountain adventures.
This quiet rest haven offers a wide range of accommodation, from a well-run campsite, set amongst towering trees and situated right on the banks of the river, to fully-equipped self-catering chalets and luxury cottages.
The luxury cottages are more 'comfortable' than luxurious, but then again I have been known to be a bit of a snob. Both the chalets and the cottages are well kitted out for self-catering, and the only real difference between the two is the superior view of the cottages and that they're a bit on the newer side.
Inside we found all the mod cons needed to keep us comfy for our stay. The indoor fireplace, a necessity during the winter months, was most welcome — especially if you don't have the luxury of a significant other with you!
The area offers a range of activities suitable for the whole family and for all fitness levels. During summer, you can relax along the banks of the Dwars or swim in the crystal clear waters of the Maalgat Pools, but in the crisp days of winter there's no excuse not to head into the mountains. If you're an avid hiker, then don your boots, your packed lunch and hike from sunrise to sunset.
Sunrise to sunset
The Cederberg is famous for its spectacular sandstone rock formations, weathered over time to produce some fascinating results such as the Maltese Cross, the Wolfberg Arch, Tafelberg, and Lot's Wife.
While you’re enjoying the mountain air, be sure to take time out to enjoy the pristine fynbos — and keep your eyes peeled for the shy Cape mountain leopard or the elusive Black Eagle. If hiking seems like too much hard work there's also the chance to finally test your 4x4 on the selection of trails — pavement parking in the city doesn't count as a test and you know it!
An absolute must is a stop in at the Cederberg Private Cellar for a bit of a sniff, swirl and tasting of some of the finest wines in the country. At 1036 metres above sea level, David Niewoudt's vineyards are the highest in the country — 'wines with altitude' they like to call them — and have won a host of awards including the coveted Veritas Double Gold Medal; the country's highest wine accolade. If you don't fall in love with David’s Cab Sav and Shiraz, then you shouldn't be allowed to drink wine!
Star gazing
Just around the corner from the wine farm, you'll come across a rather alien scene and you'd be forgiven for thinking that a UFO had crash-landed in the heart of the Cederberg. The reflective sphere-type object is in fact an observatory, run by a passionate group of amateur astronomers who open it up to the public on Saturday evenings. Weather permitting you'll be treated to a fascinating talk, slideshow and the opportunity to do some star gazing through some of their high-powered telescopes.
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In case you've forgotten anything, the friendly farm shop nearby has all the basics you could want; firewood, braaivleis and wine… what more could a human being possibly need other than warmth, food and more warmth.
Warming the soul
As the sun slips lower, we were stunned into silence as the Wolfberg in front of our chalet takes on a fierce golden hue — leaving you with just your thoughts and the crackle of the fire. It's not long before the winter wind makes its presence felt and we break out the beanies, gloves and, of course, more wine to warm the soul.
Before long, the sun is gone and the stars are out, thousands of them. Your belly is full of braaivleis fit for a Blue Bulls supporter and your cosy bed is beckoning your name — resistance is futile after a long day's hiking.
The serene silence that is nature woke me up — not traffic or blaring car alarms. Okay, maybe the sizzling bacon in the kitchen had a hand in it too! Tummies full, car packed, and we've got time for one more hike. There are worse ways to spend a weekend...