With a fynbos reserve stretching as far as the eyes can see and only the rushing of the rain-filled Palmiet River to break the silence on a crisp winter's morning, it was hard to believe that we were just an hour outside of Cape Town. But just a short trip down the N2, and a winding country road through apple orchards and rose farms, was all that was necessary to bring us to a little piece of fynbos heaven.

The Kogelberg Reserve, an internationally-recognised biosphere, is one of the more inaccessible reserves in the Western Cape. But whether you choose to approach it from the Kleinmond coast or from Elgin, as we did, the incredible natural diversity of the area makes the reserve well worth a visit.

Our weekend was spent on the edge of the reserve in the pristine tented camp on the privately-owned Buttonquail Nature Reserve. Buttonquail borders Kogelberg and acts as a buffer zone between the commercial farms and the wilderness beyond. You'll pass through a number of farms on your drive to Buttonquail, but on the final descent to the camp, it's clear you're leaving the rest of the world behind you… And for those of you for whom it matters, there isn't even cellphone reception.

Probably one of the first people you'll meet on arrival is the ever-cheerful James, the resident ranger. "Please don't fall in love with James," we're begged at lunchtime. "Everyone seems to!"

Swooning women tend to be an occupational hazard for game rangers, for some reason, and when even being caught in a rainstorm on our 4x4 drive failed to faze James, we could begin to see why. Romantic young maidens aren't the only ones in danger of losing their hearts — one extroverted little boy who accompanied us on the drive found the ranger to be a perfect older brother and confidant.

If you like the outdoors, but have tired of sacrificing your creature comforts when camping, Buttonquail is definitely a place worth investigating. Accommodation is in four safari-style canvas tents, with ensuite bathroom, double bed and bunk beds, heater and beautiful fittings — Jeanine Garlick, the camp owner, has an eye for interior décor — with an even larger communal tent providing a shared lounge, dining room, and kitchen. The arrangements mean you're likely to end up making new friends and acquaintances, while still providing the right amount of privacy.

Inside the boma
But if you'd prefer some quality time alone, two more "honeymoon" tents with a private boma and kitchen are just a stride or two up the hill. Buttonquail has solar power, though during the winter months this is in scarce supply, so there are plenty of candles and gas lamps to guide you back to the cosy confines of your tent at night.

Further up the hill, you'll find Black Eagle Camp, which consists of two ensuite lodge tents perched on the edge of a lake, with your own little veranda to while away a lazy hour or two.

Outside the boma
Both camps are self-catering, though food can be organised for big groups, and the boma is equipped with everything you'll need, from sharp knives to plenty of wine glasses (essential), two gas stoves and fridges for each tent. Naturally, there's also a fireplace.

A stay at Buttonquail includes a guided expedition into the Kogelberg Reserve, and the opportunity to view some of the 1600 plant species that thrive in the area, many of them extremely rare. It's an interactive trip as you can ask as many questions as you want along the way, and ask to stop if you spot anything interesting as you plod along in the converted Buffel vehicle, an ex-army 4x4 that's a fascinating sight in itself. If you're lucky, you could get to see the elusive Klipspringers, Clawless Otters or Black Eagles of the region, while bird life is plentiful.

There's more than enough to do during the day to keep you busy, or not, depending on your predilection — from flyfishing for rainbow trout to heading out into the Kogelberg Reserve on foot or mountain bike, or just lounging with a good book in a convenient spot along the river. Quad biking rides through the mountains can also be arranged.

Heading out for a game drive in the Buffel
Come evening and you can head out on the camp's six-seater water taxi for sundowners on the nearby lake. During the summer months these trips are almost certainly punctuated by cooling dips into the lake, but our visit at the height of a freezing Cape winter meant wrapping up warmly and clutching firmly onto a glass of red wine.

Buttonquail provides easy access to the heart of the Kogelberg Reserve, but even if it did not, the camp has its own allure, and it offers a real opportunity to escape the hustle and bustle of Cape Town, without a lengthy drive.

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