I am a wine lover through and through, and would never miss the chance of discovering a new wine farm or a new blend, but when I recently boarded a bus courtesy of the Cape Winelands District Municipality, I was pleasantly surprised to discover a ‘thousand other things to do’ before a drop of wine had even touched my lips.

First stop was the Witzenberg Meander, which encompasses Ceres, Tulbagh, and Wolseley.

Situated 150 kilometres northwest of Cape Town via Mitchell’s Pass, you’ll find Ceres, a lush valley suitably named after the Roman goddess of agriculture. But despite the valley being well-known for its delicious deciduous fruits and vegetables, the areas in and around it aren’t…

Venturing beyond Ceres

Just 35 kilometres outside Ceres is the Matroosberg Nature Reserve, where we were met with the best koeksisters I’ve ever had, and sweet rooibos tea.

Situated on the farm Erfdeel, the reserve covers more than 1000 hectares of mountain terrain, and reaches up to the Matroosberg Peak, which at an altitude of 2249 metres is the highest in the Boland. From here you have breathtaking panoramic views over the Warm Bokkeveld, Ceres, Droë Hoek, Koue Bokkeveld and the Ceres Karoo regions.

In winter the area is often transformed into a white wonderland where you can ski, snowboard or just enjoy a fun day up in the mountains.

If there is no snow there is always the option of quad-biking, hiking and mountain biking — with the reserve boasting some technical trails for those who want to bring their own quad bikes along, instead of renting.

Accommodation as well as camping facilities are also available.

Lingering fingerprints…

Also on the map of the unknown, is an area just north of the Gydo Pass between the Koue Bokkeveld and Klein Karoo, near to Op Die Berg — home to a little mystery left by the San and Khoi.

Here the sun is violent, the sky cloudless and the wind icy, as we drive towards what seems like the most barren part of the Karoo, and make our way towards a cluster of jagged rocks, leading us to these precious remnants of yesteryear.

Battered by the years and the elements, the bushmen paintings were faint but distinguishable. Our guide — a descendant of the San (with the most fitting accent) — explained the details.

The one site we visited was ‘the birthplace’ — literally. The most touching of the painting at the sight was that of a baby’s handprint left in blood and resin. ‘Feel small yet?’ I remember asking myself.

If you want to stay the night, try the newly-opened Oppi Berg Restaurant and Guest House, which is great value and only a stone’s throw from the paintings. Give them a shout on +27 23 317 0044.

Going Dutch, German, French…

Our stop for the night was Tulbagh, which can be described as ‘Franschhoek of the Witzenberg’, with trademark rose-lined gardens, historical homes and vineyards littering the valley.

We arrived after sunset at the local Rijks Hotel and were met by eyes peering through the windows, eagerly awaiting our arrival. It was as if we were one of the settlers paying a visit to relatives coming from as far afield as Cape Town.

I woke up early in the morning and went for a jog, the streets still fresh from the rain... On the way I discovered Die Oude Drosdty (the original colonial Magistrate's complex) and after passing by some farm labourers on their way to work, reached the well-kept Drostdyhof Wine Cellar.

Rare monuments

The area has a distinctly Dutch feel, but along with the Cape Dutch houses, Victorian and Edwardian architectural styles can also be seen. And with foreigners moving in at a rapid pace the town is taking on somewhat of an international flavour.

On Church Street you can find the oldest South African Church in the original Cross Form, and the fourth oldest Church in South Africa — Die Oude Kerk Volksmuseum.

Standing in the desolate church filled with memorabilia, I can picture a dozen families arriving for church on a Sunday from far and wide… In the background, a 300-year-old clock chimes, and I am once again transported back in time…

Back at the hotel I hear a rumour of night harvesting at the wine farm Twee Jonge Gezellen — a tradition which has become so popular than even the locals cannot get on the waiting list. The farm is named after two young bachelors and is not only the oldest family farm in the pioneer district of Tulbagh, but the second oldest family-owned wine estate in South Africa.

On the wilder side

Once you have had your fill of heritage, wine and food… there is plenty to do outdoors. Tulbagh boasts hiking and mountain biking trails, horse riding, fishing and birding, with guided mountain trips, sunset drives, champagne breakfasts and picnic lunches — need I say more?

A little bird also mentioned that there is a two-day hiking trail in the area, from Silwerfontein — a Natural Heritage Site. The first night is spent in a double-decker bus and the second night is spent in Ontongs Cave with spectacular views of the whole area.

Alas it was time to board the bus for more adventures in the winelands… Soon however I would be back in the real world and present day, but I vowed to visit again — and I think mid-winter might just be the perfect time…