As we make our way up the winding mountain pass, it is difficult to believe that this is the same treacherous and terrifying Helshoogte of my childhood and that our destination — now a picturesque wine region — was once the perilous ‘Banghoek’(scary corner).

So named because of the dangerous terrain and lurking leopards, the notorious Banghoek has softened into the charming Banhoek. A mere ten minutes drive from Stellenbosch, this quiet valley between the Simonsberg and Drakenstein mountain ranges offers ample opportunities for leisure and luxury, without losing its quaint country atmosphere.

Our destination is the Zorgvliet Vineyard Lodge, but before we get there, we are diverted by one of Banhoek’s modern dangers — Le Pommier Restaurant. Faced with the enticing glow from within and our growling stomachs, we soon find ourselves seated in one of the restaurant’s smaller rooms in front of a smouldering fire with a glass of Le Pommier Cabernet Franc in hand.

Apples, cherries and cheese

Named after the apple orchard which once occupied the site, this elegant eatery has a French flair with its roughly washed walls, brick floors, intimate dining rooms, cosy fireplaces and gold-framed Portchik paintings.

A mushroom and camembert tartlet served with a port and cranberry reduction is a rich, but perfectly sized starter, whetting my appetite for the open vegetable lasagne which follows – a symphony of roasted butternut, feta mushrooms, spring onions and sun-dried tomatoes, complimented by a delicate creamy sage sauce.

My partner tucks into creamy eastern-spiced mussels and a grilled ostrich fillet served on sweet potato and coriander mash and topped with a cranberry pepper jus. Already beyond the point of having our hunger satisfied, we nevertheless find space for flambéed black cherries with ice-cream and a waffle topped with berries and nuts.

Our car groans under the weight of our sumptuous meal as we make our way down the pass to the Banhoek Vineyard Lodge.

Panoramic views and cosy fires

Our elegant room, with two walls of floor to ceiling windows and a balcony, has panoramic views over the neat rows of red-tinged vines stretching up the slopes of the majestic (and today somewhat moody) mountain.

The room is separated from the large en suite bathroom by slatted wooden screen doors which open to reveal marble counter-tops, free-standings basins and a delightful Victorian-style bath.

Deterred from further exploration by the incessant rainfall and ridiculously cold temperature outside, we light the gas fire and snuggle under the blanket, preparing to spend an afternoon of decadent relaxation.

The lodge also has a guest lounge for those more inclined to sociability, equipped with comfy couches, a small library, a television, a selection of board games and an ‘honesty bar’ from which guest can help themselves to a range of Zorgvliet wines.

For those not restricted by the dreary winter weather, there is a private courtyard with a pool and deck chairs and a more public picnic spot on the Zorgvliet estate.

The ghost of General Beyers

Having recovered from our excesses at lunch, we head for Herenhuis, the restaurant situated on the Zorgvliet estate. It occupies a manor house which was once owned by General CF Beyers. Run down in recent years, it has been restored to its former glory and the wide wooden ceiling beams, oversized fireplaces and palm lined driveway give the manor an air of grandeur.

The restaurant, which captures the spirit of Banhoek with a series of seven paintings of the area by renowned local artist Robert Koch, offers distinctly South African dishes with a modern twist. Not surprising then, there are not too many vegetarian options. I settle for the creamy butternut and green pea soup starter and the spinach and feta strudel served with mushroom risotto and a plum tomato and basil sauce for main.

While I thoroughly enjoyed my meal, it was probably not the best the restaurant had to offer. A better bet may have been my partner’s fresh asparagus and smoked salmon starter followed by phyllo pastry-wrapped oxtail on paprika samp with seasonal vegetables.

After polishing off a delicious trio of homemade ice-creams, we head for the bar area to finish off our bottle of Silver Myn Chardonnay. Seated on the big leather couches, we listen as the hospitality manager describes the antics of the resident ghost — General Beyers.

Impressed by the friendly, yet discreet, service and a little thrilled by the story of the roving ghost, we head out into the dark and stormy night.

The next day we are pleasantly surprised by the (mostly) clear skies and after a hearty breakfast at the lodge, sit down to discuss our options for the day — wine tasting, a vineyard tour, a hike, a trip to the nearby Hillcrest berry farm, a picnic beneath the oaks or a day of pampering at the Zorgvliet spa. Personally, I’m inclined to opt for the spa, but I can see my partner is keen to try Zorgvliet’s flagship wine Richelle 2004, priced at R500 per bottle!