We knew we were onto a good thing when the first words we heard upon arrival at Kapama Private Game Reserve were “Pimm’s and Ginger Ale anyone?” Very civilised indeed.

Named after the Swazi king that once ruled this area of the Lowveld bush, Kapama Private Nature Reserve, as we were to discover, offers two things in large portions: friendly service and playful pachyderms.

With the mercury soaring to the mid-30s (it had topped 40 the previous day) the reserve's main lodge was a cool, calm oasis in the midst of tinder-dry bushveld. Although just a half-hour drive from nearby Hoedspruit Airport, a comfortable 60-minute flight from Joburg with SA Express (or a sweltering five hours in the car if you prefer), the lodge feels as cast away in the bush as you could hope for. With all the trappings of luxury though, of course…

Covering around 13 000 hectares of prime Big Five territory, the reserve has succeeded in combining the wilderness of the bushveld with the luxury you’d expect from a five-star hotel. Although this isn’t anything out of the ordinary in an area that has become increasingly popular with well-heeled local and foreign visitors, Kapama’s down-to-earth hospitality and friendly service makes you feel more like you’re visiting a friend’s bushveld home than a five-star lodge.

The main lodge offers 20 luxurious thatched chalets, each decorated in warm, earthy tones in a tasteful safari theme. In fact, at the lodge you never feel far away from the great outdoors: from the giraffe nibbling on the trees outside the lodge to the nyala grazing peacefully on the lawns, you are surrounded by nature at every turn.

From Pimm's to pachyderms

As tempting as it was to remain in the shady cool of the tea deck overlooking the lake, it wasn’t long before we found ourselves perched on an open-top Land Rover heading off into the bush. Destination: Camp Jabulani, the home of South Africa’s first elephant-back safaris.

Rescued from the dwindling reserves in Zimbabwe, the 12 trained elephants that call Camp Jabulani their home offer an unforgettable wildlife experience. Swaying patiently from side to side while their story is told by the head ranger, the elephants seemed only to eager to head off for their daily amble through the thorny bushveld.

Unlike game-viewing from a Landie, an elephant-back safari goes at one speed; slowly! Covering less ground means you probably won’t see as much game as you would on the Landie, but what you lose in numbers you gain in the feeling of being a part of the bush. Besides, the ellies are the main attraction here and the sensation of sharing their company for a sunset stroll is simply fantastic.

From getting to know your elephant (each is named after their home range in Zimbabwe) to simply relishing the new perspective on the bush, it’s a wonderful way to spend the few hours before sunset. The safaris don’t come cheap, but for game viewing with a difference it simply can’t be beaten.

However, not all of the elephants in the reserve are as accommodating of humans.

Making our way back to the lodge as the darkness fell around us, the spotter scanned the bush for signs of life. A crackle over the radio alerted us that there was an 'ingwe' in the vicinity. Leopard!

These notoriously shy nocturnal cats are difficult to spot, but after a few minutes of careful tracking we found her. Unaccustomed to the spotlight, she sat there blinking for a few seconds before padding away silently into the bush. It was only a fleeting glimpse, but spectacular nonetheless. Buzzing with excitement we eagerly scanned the bush for other signs of life.

All of a sudden the torchlight illuminated a herd of elephant feeding in the lush vegetation next to the old farm dam. One testy looking young male had reportedly mock-charged the other Landie a short while before, so before he got any ideas we beat a hasty retreat to the safety and comfort of the lodge.

A welcome sight

Back at Kapama Lodge the friendly staff had been keeping the home fires burning, and a meal around the campfire beckoned. Dinners in the boma offer a plentiful buffet of hearty, rustic fare, so you certainly won’t go hungry after a day out in the bush.

As tempting as it was to spend the night swapping tales around the campfire, the 5am game drive was too early a morning call. As one of the largest reserves in the area, Kapama supports a wonderful variety of game and with skilled trackers and rangers you’re bound to get a close-up view of much of it!

While other reserves in the area may offer more luxurious accommodation or upmarket dining, the down-to-earth friendliness of the staff and their genuine affection for the animals in their care (evidenced as well by the Hoedspruit Endangered Species Centre on the reserve) makes Kapama one of the best safari options in the Lowveld.

    Visit Kapama...
  • Visit http://iafrica.safarinow.com for more information and to book online.
  • Rates for the various lodges start from R2550 per person (including accommodation, meals and game drives). Elephant back safaris are not included in the rates, but can be arranged through the reserve.
  • The quickest way to get to Kapama is to fly to Hoedspruit with South African Express Airways. Transfers between the reserve and Hoedspruit/Eastgate airport can be arranged.
  • Kapama is situated in a low-risk malaria area, but prophylactics are recommended. Consult your doctor at least two weeks prior to departure.