'Sss-sshhh. Silence. Sss-sshhh. Wait. Sss-sshhh. Quiet. It's a gentle, constant rhythm... the whisper of spring-low waves as they filter and froth through shells and pebbles and stones. The lullaby of the Wild Coast.

If you walk this coastline, often touted as the last unspoilt stretch South Africa has to offer, you begin to tune into its rhythms. The sleek weave of dolphin schools in the early morning surf, the telltale whoosh of water from a whale on a still day, the ebb of the tides, the swarm and rest of sea birds and surge of wind in the afternoons. Every minute you walk, whether it's on the sand of wide bays or up a hill that drops into the Indian Ocean, your mind eases into that chilled out Wild Coast way.

Worries of phone calls and traffic jams fade and instead your ears tune into the sound of a woman's song slipping through a valley. The only traffic you deal with is a herd of cows on the beach and, instead of sitting through meetings, you'll rest on a rock and watch boys playing with bicycle wheels.

Trailing away

Wild Coast Holiday Reservations, the family-run company that created both the Wild Coast Meander and the Amble, has a new route: the Hole in the Wall Hiking Trail. The good news is you don't have to be a hardcore hiker to do it porters carry your pack so all you need to concentrate on is walking.

It's called slack-packing, and it's revolutionising hiking. The trail is organised as a five-day trip, with transfers from either Umtata or East London where you leave your vehicle, and three days of hiking. You start walking at Presley Bay, between Hluleka and Umtata Mouth, and end at one of South Africa's geological icons, Hole in the Wall. The terrain varies from sandy beaches to rocks, grassy hills and a river crossing, and if you're relatively fit the walk should be a breeze.

Each stretch of the trail offers something different. The first day of walking (13 kilometres), from Presley Bay to Anchorage Hotel near Umtata Mouth, is beach all the way. It's along clean sand that sweeps around from bay to bay, and eventually up to the Anchorage, an old hotel whose kitchen serves a wicked creamy mussel soup.

Views to forever

The second day's walk (nine kilometres), from the Anchorage to the Ocean View hotel in Coffee Bay, begins with a stretch of beach, then rises onto hills that drift into the Transkei interior. The hills are speckled with huts and small vegetable gardens. The trail follows the coastline where the hills have eroded and left dolomite cliffs that drop into the ocean. The views from up there, needless to say, are exquisite.

The path eventually dips down into Coffee Bay, where the Ocean View hotel is home for a night. You've the option to stay here for two nights (you have to book this in advance) and if you've the time, do it. The holiday vibe, casual atmosphere and food will soon have you planning another holiday there.

The final day (11 kilometres) is a combination of beaches, dune forests, dolomite cliffs and whaleback hills. Some of the climbs are steep, but there's always the view to look forward to. And, of course, reaching the 'Hole'. The night is spent at the Hole in the Wall Hotel, which is turning itself into a self-catering establishment, yet still has a restaurant serving tasty seafood.

The worst thing about a holiday is how it ends so abruptly: pack the car and head home, your cellphone starts to ring, you remind yourself to buy fresh milk and bread before you get home. It's not like that after a hike on the Wild Coast; the day after the hike, Wild Coast Reservations drives you back to your vehicle at either Umtata or East London, easing you back into reality as gently as the first day took you away. The transition is gratifyingly gradual.

Don't forget to pack:

  • A book to read in the afternoons.
  • Binoculars to watch the whales, dolphins and sea birds.
  • Small changefor tips and the ferry crossing at Umtata River Mouth.
  • Camera.
  • Swimming costume.
  • A light bird book.

    This feature originally appeared in Getaway Magazine. For more, visit getawaytoafrica.co.za

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