Home to 50-something churches, cathedrals, chapels and other places of worship, it’s no surprise that Grahamstown is known as the 'City of Saints'. But religion aside, it’s also home to a university, the country's biggest annual arts festival and possibly South Africa's most unpredictable climate.

"If you don’t like the weather, just wait a minute," goes the saying, no doubt started soon after the city was established back in 1812. Initially the British military headquarters in the Frontier Wars with the isiXhosa, the city grew into the Cape’s second largest settlement — a bustling place of soldiers, ivory traders and settlers.

The big game hunters may now have been replaced by students, but it’s almost as if no time has passed since those heady days. It’s still real frontier territory. Of course there have been some changes — with the clearly visible stamp of the Khoi, Xhosa and Afrikaans cultures — the British influence still dominates. Think a refined 19th century English university town of Victorian houses, Gothic cathedrals and traditional pubs.

What to see
With some roads wide enough to U-turn an ox-wagon, the best way to explore the broad tree-lined streets of Grahamstown is on foot.

Befitting an old city, there’s an interesting collection of museums; from the traditional History (the settlers and indigenous people) to the National Science format exploring the region’s fauna, flora and prehistoric connections — there's even a reconstruction of the first dinosaur found in the country. The SA Institute For Aquatic Biodiversity provides more than a tongue-twister — it’s also the home of the coelacanth or, to be exact, two huge stuffed specimens in the foyer.

Prefer arts to fish? The National English Literary Museum (NELM) features the lives and works of authors like Can Themba, Bosman and Oswald Mtshali, while the International Library of African Music is exactly that. With plenty of recordings of traditional African music and a collection of more than 200 instruments it’s not strictly a museum, but call beforehand to organise a tour.

But definitely drop by at the Observatory Museum in Bathurst Street which features one of the world’s only two Victorian 'camera obscura'. A contraption on the building’s roof, reached by a dizzying winding staircase, it reflects a rotating, real-time image of the city onto a circular white surface. Best head there on a clear day when the reflections are crisp and the view from the tower unobscured.

If it’s views you’re after, the sandstone monolith that’s the 1820 Settlers Monument, built to commemorate the arrival of British settlers, provides even better panoramas of Grahamstown and the Belmont Valley beyond.

Town or city?
In a skyline littered with spires, the tallest tower belongs to the Cathedral of St Michael and St George. Situated on Church Square (which is actually a triangle) in the centre of High Street, it’s the reason that the diminutive town can call itself a city.

The Gothic building opened in 1830, but in typically laid-back Grahamstown fashion, was only fully completed 122 years later. In the process it gathered an impressive pedigree: the first and heaviest full ring of eight bells on the African continent; a massive organ, brass pulpit and memorial tablets dating from frontier times; the southern wall is South Africa’s oldest surviving Anglican church structure.

Eating Out
Fne dining is not Grahamstown's strong-point, but the city has a good collection of reasonably-priced restaurants with reasonable food. Try some authentic South African cuisine at The Calabash Restaurant in the High Street, or go Italian at the likes of La Galleria Trattoria or Gino’s in the Vic.

Too noisy? Find refuge in the coffee shops: Madhatter's (try their gluhwein during the festival) or 137 High Street which boasts some fine coffee and cheesecake. But the finest meals in the city are to be had at the Cock House restaurant which specialises in Provencal country cuisine. Try their ostrich or lamb shanks – Madiba’s favourite.

Find a bed
The place where VIPs like Mandela and Thabo Mbeki stay when in town, The Cock House itself one of the city’s top guesthouses. Once owned by author André Brink, the beautiful Victorian house offers a spot of country charm and seven plush en-suite rooms. Fully booked? The city offers a range of accommodation from B&Bs to a caravan park — but avoid Grahamstown during the annual festival in July — unless you want to end up sleeping in a stranger’s lounge.

Don't miss the old world charm of the historic Hermitage B&B (only two rooms, so it’s a good idea to book) or the chance to spend the night in a jail cell (the old gaol backpacker lodge is housed in an historic prison).

Otherwise, experience the culture of today by staying with a Xhosa family in one of the B&Bs springing up in the townships located on the eastern side of the city.

Township touring
Fingo Village — with its multi-coloured houses of pink, green and blue — is very poor, but remains a bustling place with a real sense of community.

It’s but one of several areas within the Grahamstown townships which can be visited on guided township tours. Umthathi tours, for one, takes you to the garden project in Rhini township and into the homes of the residents for meals, arts, crafts, customs and the other staples of such tours.

Getting there
Grahamstown lies about 130km (or an hour’s drive) east of Port Elizabeth along the N2 and is an excellent base for Eastern Cape exploring. The coast is 45 minutes (60km) away, while the towns of Kenton-on-Sea, Port Alfred, Bathurst and Salem are within (proverbial) spitting distance.