I’d been planning a weekend away for weeks on end, but after numerous delays we eventually headed for the hills and into 'the country'. The KwaZulu-Natal Midlands — the last outpost of idyllic country living — beckoned hypnotically as the sun descended behind the distant mountains ahead of us.

Celebrating its 20th anniversary this year, the Midlands Meander has grown beyond all imagining. Hardly recognisable as the rural collection of crafters it once was, today the Meander is a thriving tourist destination and growing at a phenomenal rate. Thankfully though, it has not lost the tranquil atmosphere and peace and quiet that continues to bring people back year after year.

Small crafters, big ambitions
The first route of its kind in the country, the Meander was initially just a small collection of crafters hoping to attract visitors off the beaten track — that well worn road between Johannesburg and Durban. They had no idea of the success that awaited them, and today it boasts an eclectic mix of arts and crafts with a wide range of sporting, environmental and historical attractions.

We left Durban in the mid-afternoon and took a leisurely drive past Pietermaritzburg, Midmar Dam, Balgowen and on to our overnight stop a mere two hours later. Just beyond the Nottingham Road area, about 10 minutes along a dirt road and 100m down a verdant driveway, Thatchings Guest House swung into view.

The epitome of peace and quiet, Thatchings was exactly what the name promised. Whitewashed walls contrasted the rustic, thatched roofs to create a sense of rural tranquillity, all topped off with sweeping views across the still waters of their three dams.

With warm hospitality luxurious rooms, goose down duvets and en-suite bathrooms it made for the perfect overnight stay, and after a few locally brewed beers sampled at their little pub we were definitely feeling like the real world was very far away!

Brilliant sunshine and crisp, cool air sent shivers of excitement down our spines the next morning in anticipation of the day ahead, and after a truly sumptuous breakfast we continued on our merry way.

Cheeses, leather and lavender...
From Thatchings we made our way along the 'real' Meander with its winding roads and undulating countryside, stopping to look at an abundance of places selling anything from cottage furniture to trout fishing essentials to handmade leather shoes.

Well worth visiting is Swissland Cheese. Located at the very top of a rather roughly hewn road you’re rewarded with magnificent views across the valley and the chance to relax with a picnic tray of assorted goat’s cheeses — a gastronomic indulgence!

Further down the road you’ll find Jim Green Footwear, the home of well made, hard wearing leather footwear and belts. It is one of a number of handmade leather goods stores, such as the well-known Groundcover, that have sprung up in the area and developed a loyal following of regular customers.

Also on the Meander is Rawdons Hotel, a perennial favourite with visitors to the Midlands with its peaceful surrounds and longstanding reputation for excellence. Although given our experience at teatime, I was left wondering why, as burnt food, compounded by appalling service, doesn’t score many points in my book.

Right next door though you’ll find the Nottingham Road Brewing Company. A rustic brewery producing some of the best tasting beers you’re yet to enjoy — this is a definite 'must' on the Midlands Meander. Taste a Whistling Weasel Pale Ale, a Pickled Pig Porter or a Tiddly Toad Lager and make sure you’ve booked accommodation nearby!

We managed to avoid the evils of alcohol (although we did buy a few one litre bottles to take with us!) and made our way to Barrett's Country House in Dargle. As we approached the farm, the main house stood out white and stark against the burnt oranges of the dry winter landscape, evoking thoughts of colonial-style lodgings at their best.

Our room was at the end of a gently climbing pathway at the top of a hill. A bit out of breath already, we were left speechless as we enjoyed the most beautiful view out across a sweeping valley, kissed with the golden light of the setting sun.

The kitchen at Barretts has already received a number of complimentary mentions by Durban’s most respected food critic, Anne Stevens, and we were not to be disappointed. A rich, creamy butternut soup was the perfect starter on the chill winter’s night, while the local speciality, trout, was cooked to perfection and literally melted in the mouth.

Master craftsmen on the Dargle route
Staying on the Dargle route the next morning, we set out with great expectations as this area in particular is said to be home to some of the best stores and master craftsmen on the Meander.

Set in a tiny wooden hut surrounded by lavender fields, The Lavender Company offers natural lavender, tea tree and geranium products such as heavenly bath milks, creamy soaps, scented bath crystals and enriching body lotions, as well as lavender plants to grow at home.

The Woodturner & Hampden Inc. was another indulgent sensory experience in its own right — the earthy smell of wood, natural glowing tones, silky smooth textures and wonderfully organic shapes. Although slightly more expensive than the average wares on the Meander, father and son team John and Andrew Early produce exquisite functional art from that s worth every cent.

Reluctantly heading back to Durban, we made one last stop at the Dargle Arms for lunch and soaked up the sun and atmosphere at this quaint, early 1900's inn before heading for the highway and modern civilisation.

We left the Midlands Meander feeling rejuvenated and ready to face the pressures of city life, albeit with great reluctance.