Gauteng may be our most densely populated province, with Joburg and Pretoria more or less one megacity in all but name, but for rat racers used to negotiating the sales at Sandton City the Magaliesberg provides a welcome bolthole.

The Magaliesberg mountains are truly ancient creations. Formed over millions of years when massive seismic events rippled through the region, these volcanic peaks make the Himalayas look like cheeky upstarts.

Not content with being one of the oldest ranges on earth, the Magaliesberg is also, according to recent thinking, the first home of our species, with some of the oldest hominid fossils yet found located at the Sterkfontein Cave complex. And modern humans have lived here for at least 10 000 years, maybe more.

But these days the mountains prefer to keep their magnificent past to themselves, and casual visitors, whizzing past on the dusty back roads, remain ignorant of their treasures unless they’re prepared to take the time for a closer look.

Unspoilt wilderness
Mountain Sanctuary Park, just a hop, skip and a jump away from Sandton, is a thousand-hectare piece of unspoilt wilderness. There’s a small, well-kept, but basic campsite and a couple of chalets, with easy hiking past deep, hidden kloofs and fantastically weathered rock formations. Definitely the easiest way to get back to nature in the soul-restoring surrounds of the bushveld. And many Joburgers don't even know it exists!

On a short walk there a couple of weeks ago, we saw black eagles circling overhead, exchanged greetings with a baboon troop, and saw eye to eye with two grysbok, usually very shy, skittish creatures. The sun was high, the river was nothing but a trickle, and we were glad to cool off in the swimming pool, which boasts a great view over the Grootfontein valley. Much nicer than nearby Hartebeespoort Dam with its attendant traffic jams and Tuscan villas.

Oh, and radios, musical instruments, TVs and tape recorders are strictly prohibited. Thank goodness.

A visit to fairyland
But if you want a few more creature comforts, a little enchantment of a different kind, and aren’t too keen on the self-catering route, you could do a lot worse than a stay at Goblin’s Cove. It’s paradise for little ones, with jungle gyms, a Fairy Shoppe (a must-do if you’re a fairy godmother) and finches, doves, gorgeously-coloured pheasants, and sweet little bunny rabbits hopping about.

All this is set in a cool forest glade, with whimsical sculptures of fairies and goblins, with the restaurant in a huge twisty house that Hansel and Gretel might have stayed in before they met the big bad witch, with plenty of nooks and crannies to be explored. Private dining rooms help make this place a favourite venue for birthday parties and celebrations.

Even big children (like my partner and his dad) are wowed by the idea of sleeping in a train carriage, and if the wind’s blowing, you can pretend you’re on the Orient-Express, steaming through the night to Istanbul. It’s like the Blue Train on a budget. Best of all, the mini-suite (lounge/children’s room, bedroom and bathroom) come with the original SAR fold-up basins, adding a nice touch of authenticity.

After stowing our bags (there are, of course, overhead luggage racks, in true rail style) we made our way to the restaurant for supper. We shared a starter portion of Calamari Tubes, served with a garlic, parsley oil and "sheswan" pepper sauce, at R30.50, and couldn’t resist the smokey flavours of the Loin of Lamb (good value at R78.50), with ratatouille and basil sauce. Goblin’s Cove excels in the dessert department, and we were so pleased with the Fudge Picasso (light fudge mousse with toffee sauce, R28.50) and Chocolate Mousse (R30.50) that we refused to share!

There's no shortage of accommodation in the Magaliesberg, and enough activities to suit even the most demanding party, with the Cradle of Humankind, fly-fishing and the Magalies Meander all jostling for your attention. We didn't try the famous canopy tour (still on the to-do list), but the glorious Walter Sisulu Botanical Gardens in Ruimsig provided a gentle end to a relaxed weekend away.