Cape Town may be called 'Slaapstad', but lately it has only held early mornings, late nights and raccoon eyes for me. A week of snowballing stress became one big blur as I dash away from the stand-by counter at Cape Town airport and weave my way through the Friday afternoon crowds and make it to the gate just in time: “You’re lucky. We were about to close.”
Exactly 25 minutes later the small jet touches down in George.
A serene blonde woman called Ypie awaits me as well as a couple of other travellers and whisks us off to our respective guesthouses in Knysna. I’m the last one to be dropped off — but not the least. The unassuming pink facade of ‘Milkwood Bay’ is deceiving, for as I enter my room I have to gasp at the sunset silver lagoon against the white décor. My window is literally on the edge of the water and as I sink into the pillows all I can see is tranquil blue and a touch of pink before the day turns black.
The temptation to stay — right there — is difficult to resist but Ypie is ringing the doorbell, ready to take me to Zest restaurant for an oyster and whiskey pairing. Since Knysna is home to the country’s most popular oyster festival I was bound to come across these creatures around here. And what a wicked combination: move over Tabasco, I have discovered Famous Grouse.
"...a happy haze of liquid crème brulee..."
Our waiter, Stephen, is a gem. The best waiter I have ever had. He deserves an award for reading our table like the palm of his hand, making everything easy to understand, recommending what is freshest for the evening and never ever letting a glass of wine or whiskey dip too low.
Dinner at Zest ends in a happy haze of liquid crème brulee (or Baileys as it is better known) and chatter. When I eventually give in to the pillows at Milkwood Bay, I leave the curtains open and dream of waking up to the blue lagoon.
And indeed, I wake up to wow as the moody blues light up under the cloudy patched sky. I have a quick shower and indulge my skin in the complimentary Charlotte Rhys body cream before going upstairs to have breakfast with just as glorious a view (and I am not only talking about the artistically arranged fruit plate).
Today our small group is going on a tour of the Knysna forest. We hop on the 4x4 and off we go on a slightly chilly morning. We drive through the stunning Simola golf resort (there seems to be quite a few of these around) and into the Gouna forest, where we discover a yellowwood tree that is almost 700 years old. It makes me feel really small and insignificant. I mean; 700 years ago is when the pilgrims first discovered America!
We bask in the silence around the enormous tree and discover fungus in the most enchanting colours. Together with wildflowers such as Heather and Ericas, these provide a touch of colour and fun in the forest. Of course, I’d have to add the Knysna Loeries with their bright feathers — but they are somewhat elusive today.
Crack, season, shlurp...
After all that fresh air, we are indeed ready for some oysters at the Knysna Oyster Company — our next stop. On average, 190 000 oysters are consumed at the Knysna Oyster Festival in July each year. I struggle to even get to nine, especially since my favourite are wild oysters, which are much richer and creamier than the West Coast variety.
Oysters contain vitamin B and folic acid so they’re actually quite healthy. Aphrodisiac? Well, that’s not really proven, but folic acid is important in fertility so that could be where the hype comes from. And I have to admit, the whole oyster shlurping ritual is rather sexy.
Knysna is a kind of paradise, I think, as I return to the guesthouse for a massage next to the pool. The sun peeps out and makes the lagoon glitter while warming up my skin. It’s immediately clear that Janet is an experienced therapist and I find out that she has worked at Pezula for years before starting her own business, ‘The comfort zone’.
I am finally completely relaxed and it’s already time to go back to the city — but not before a quick cycle around Leisure Isle and a breakfast at Leisure Isle Lodge on Sunday morning. People are walking their dogs, boating around the lagoon (which is technically an estuary I am told) and generally looking laid back and friendly.
What a perfect getaway indulgence… Knysna has enough outdoor action, foodie delights, sensual treats and peace and quiet to make a perfect escape for just about anybody.
With the gourmet breakfast from award-winning Daniella’s at Leisure Isle Lodge still lingering on my tongue and the peacful lagoon deeply ingrained in my memory, I get on the plane back to Cape Town — with enough beautiful moments on my mind to get me through another frantic week.
The Knysna Oyster Festival takes place from 6-15 July. For more information visit www.oysterfestival.co.za.