Knysna by boat

Voted 'Engen Town of the Year' in 2003, Knysna is certainly one of South Africa’s most popular tourist towns, drawing thousands of local and international visitors each year. Yet apart from taking the occasional ferry trip to the famous "Heads" at the mouth of the lagoon, comparatively few visitors get to experience the lagoon close-up in all it’s tidal beauty. While a brief ferry trip may be enough the whet your appetite, the only way to really get a feel for Knysna afloat is to get behind the wheel of your own craft, raise the anchor and set off into the blue yonder…

Fully equipped fleet

Lightleys Holiday Houseboats have a fleet of 12 self-contained houseboats, all of which come fully equipped with gas stove and fridge, hot and cold water, crockery, cutlery and bedding. Apart from enough food and drink for the weekend, Lightleys also suggest you take along swimming costumes, towels, fishing tackle, binoculars (there is excellent bird-watching) and a good book. Candles are also a must for that romantic dinner.

Leisure Liners, the smaller of their two types of boat, can take up to five people although I’d imagine that on a rainy day the cabin could get a bit crowded with a full crew on-board. These boats are perfectly suited for a romantic getaway, and with just a couple on-board you’ll have more than enough space to spread out and relax. If you've got kids the Leisure Liners can also be fitted with a fun water-slide to keep the kids occupied while you tuck into yet another G&T.

Leisure Liner & Aqua Chalet

If there’s a larger group of you then hiring one of the five Aqua Chalets is the way to go, as they sleep up to six people comfortably. Although not quite as sleek as the Leisure liners, the Aqua Chalets are definitely more spacious and have a large entertainment deck that’s just perfect for an extended sundowner session.

Easy to drive and navigate

After a straightforward safety briefing introducing us to the basics of boating on the lagoon and how to operate the boat it was time to load up our stores and step aboard for our 48-hour holiday afloat.

The boats are very easy to control and as long as you take it slowly and are aware of your surroundings, you can’t really go wrong. Just remember that your boat is far bigger and heavier than a car so you need to be cautious when driving.

If you had visions of having to use a sextant and nautical charts to find your way, don't worry. The main channel through the lagoon is clearly marked by a series of large red buoys, so as long as you take care to follow the route from one buoy to the next, it’s difficult to go wrong. You’ll also need to keep track of the tide as the water level can change dramatically in a short space of time. With a bit of common sense and a healthy dose of respect for your boat and the lagoon, even the most hardened landlubber should have no trouble at all.

Apart from being much safer, taking it slowly is the also best way to see the sights — there’s little point in tearing about the lagoon at top-speed as you’ll miss half of what you've come to see. The view of Knysna from the water is one that few get to enjoy, so take your time as you motor along the channel towards the Heads. If you’re in luck you’ll pass under the railway bridge at the same time as the Outenique Choo-Tjoe, the famous steam train service running from George to Knysna.

Stormy waters

Although the lagoon is usually fairly placid you should be careful not to under-estimate the tides and weather. The flow of the tide in and out of the lagoon can be extremely powerful, especially on a spring tide, and for this reason no boats are allowed near or between the Heads where the lagoon meets the sea. On the day we visited a strong easterly wind sprang up in the morning and turned the usually calm water into a seething line of white-horses and spray, forcing a hasty retreat to the calmer water up-river.

Luckily the fleet controller at Lightleys had given us a call in the morning to let us know that some wind was expected, so we were prepared for a bit of rough water and knew that we should turn back if the wind started to come up. All of the boats are fitted with CB radios, and if you get into the trouble the folk at Lightleys will be only too happy to come out and give you a hand.

With over 20 kilometres of navigable river there is more than enough to keep you occupied for a few days, and although driving around seeing the sights is good fun, the relaxation really comes when you drop anchor and put your feet up.

Deciding to anchor in the calmer water upriver to avoid the strong wind, we spent most of our time on the boat at anchor, rocking gently to and fro as the breeze and current argued over which way to push us. Although the motion of the boat is minimal, as there is no swell, if you've a sensitive stomach you may want to take along some sea-sickness tablets.

With a good book in hand, a baited line over the side to catch an unwary grunter and an ice-cold beer within easy reach, it's easily one of the best ways to while away a late summer afternoon.

As the sun finally set behind the forested hills, the lagoon comes alive. A pair of majestic African Fish Eagles in a nearby treetop break the silence with their distinctive call while mullet leap out of the river in an act of bravado. All that's left to do is soak up the warmth of the braai fire and watch the reflection of the full moon shimmer on the water as the lagoon rushed back out to sea.

Explore Knysna Lagoon

• Lightleys jetty is situated just off the N2 on the Western side of the Knysna Lagoon, approximately 495 kilometres from Cape Town.
• The boats are fully equipped and all you need to take on-board is your own food and drinks. Lightleys can arrange catering on request, but you'll need to give them 24 hours notice. Note that no pets are allowed on-board.
• Hire rates vary greatly depending on the season, so for up-to-date tariffs and more information visit the Lightleys Holiday Houseboats website, or call them on (044) 386 0007. You can also email them at sandpoint@pixie.co.za.