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I’m spending the weekend in Pongola. My friends look at me with a mixture of awe and admiration. We were headed for a South African’s dream retreat – an affordable safari lodge (yes, there is such a thing!), called Pakamisa Paradise, built on a mountain overlooking scenic valleys and rivers. The lodge is a short drive away from the sugar cane farming community of Pongola, on the border of Swaziland in KwaZulu-Natal.
"Oooh, how exotic," I thought.

Our NAC charter plane
Well, to be honest, exotic wasn’t quite on my mind when the pilot of our 19-seater NAC charter plane started making wide circles in the air near where we were supposed to land. I spotted a tiny strip of gravel way down below. That dusty smudge was the airport? The pilot was obviously having similar doubts as he announced that we should dig in our heels; the runway was pretty short. He probably started applying brakes even before touch down but in the end, the landing wasn’t very dramatic and no passing game was mowed down in the process.

You know you’re in the bush, when the so-called airport boasts a hangar to store light aircraft, loads of tall grass and not much else. It’s a welcome change to bright lights and bustle and it set the tone for a tranquil escape from the city.

Isabella von Stepski, the owner of Pakamisa, came over to greet us. See, I told you this place would be glamorous and with a name like that, well, I was right. Isabella does indeed exude an air of nobility. Even though she looks completely at home attired in safari garb and bounding through the bush with zeal, she’s the picture of grace.

Isabella and her steed
And when Isabella mounts her adored Arabian horse, who crossed the seas with her from Spain, and trots around her 2500-hectare estate, she positively glows. Despite being far away from her family in Austria, it’s quite obvious that this spot in the African wild is now her home.

After a forty-minute drive up a gravel path, we reach Pakamisa, a serene Spanish villa with an African flavour, a dream that took over four years to create. Isabella’s inspiration is evident everywhere – from the colonial Spanish décor to the European–styled cuisine.

Relaxing on the balcony
Our spacious suite was high ceilinged and elegantly tiled with an airy bedroom leading onto a sunken lounge complete with personal mini bar and edible treats. The cherry on top was the verandah that just oozed colonial decadence and filled us with fantasies of long sunny days on the portico drinking in the glorious scenery and sipping on a G&T.

At Pakamisa, you can be as idle or as energetic as you want. The sparkling pool is just as tempting as the chic but comfy lounge to while away the unhurried hours. Or you can boost your energy levels with a brisk amble though the reserve. Feeling mildly adventurous, we opted for the ranger’s walking tour. Our hill climbing efforts were well rewarded with breathtaking views and cool-down drinks in the middle of the bush.

What our competition winner had to say...

The location, accommodation, facilities, food and service certainly lived up to the establishment’s star-rating. Isabella is a truly delightful, charming and well-informed woman whose hospitality and time spent with us, was greatly appreciated. Pakamisa is certainly on our itinerary for future local travel.
— Jason Aarons —
If you’re a horsy type, then you simply can’t miss the opportunity of game watching atop one of Isabella’s beautiful thoroughbred Arabians. She has built a wonderful home for her stud and is already lavishing love on the first generation of African-born Arabians. These foals are just the cutest!

With an obvious empathy towards her horses, Isabella has chosen to keep predators out of the reserve and instead has introduced a variety of game into the region, including buck, zebra, giraffe and warthog.

Other more unusual activities on the farm include clay pigeon shooting as well spa treatments. Isabella’s future plans include the opening of a rejuvenating wellness centre at Pakamisa. I can just imagine lying in the outdoors surrounded by that awesome view whilst expert hands knead away my stress. Now that’s what I call paradise!

Meal times are enjoyed in the stylish restaurant, El Prado. The weather was glorious so we were served on the terrace, giving us the opportunity to admire the acres of unspoiled veld. Unfortunately Pakamisa was between chefs at the time of our visit so the taste of the food was not delectable enough to distract me from the scenery. However I can only assume that once a new culinary master is settled, Pakamisa will be able to add gourmet excellence to its long list of attractions.

Braaivleis in the bundu
The gastronomic highlight of our stay was the braai in the bush. After a brisk morning walk, we were lead into a clearing where a sumptuous spread had been laid out. The chef was sizzling a variety of game meats on the braai and my taste buds almost leapt out of my mouth with delight at the sight of the buffet table laden with fresh homemade breads and salads.

Aerial view of Pakamisa
Tummies full, brains clear and tension banished, we drove down the mountain towards the airstrip. And as we took off into the blue yonder, even the pilots, who had also spent the weekend with us, couldn’t resist a second glance at Pakamisa.

Reminiscent of our landing, the plane made big circles in the air and despite our churning stomachs, we admired the aerial vista of the paradise of Pakamisa. It’s one view I know I will never forget.


Visit Pakamisa...
  • Rates for Pakamisa for South African residents only start from R880 per person per night sharing. This includes accommodation, meals, daily game drives, walking safaris, horse-riding and guided bird watching.
  • For more information, contact Pakamisa on +27 34 413 3559. You can also email info@pakamisa.co.za or visit www.pakamisa.co.za