The small brown road signs lining the N2 east of Port Elizabeth make it clear that this is ‘Frontier Country’; a land where wave after wave of European settlers arrived to take advantage of the ‘empty’ green hills of the Eastern Cape. Understandably the local Xhosa were none too pleased, sparking a confrontation that led to some of the bloodiest clashes of the 1800s.

The stretch between Port Elizabeth, then known as Algoa Bay, and the quaint university town of Grahamstown is still frontier country, in a sense, but this new wave of travellers have game viewing, five-star accommodation and a much warmer welcome to look forward to.

Since Shamwari Game Reserve first brought the Big Five experience to the Eastern Cape in 1992, the area has mushroomed into one of the top game-viewing areas in the country, helped along by the continued expansion and improvement of the nearby Addo Elephant Park.

Diaries of the original 1820 settlers describe the region as teeming with game of all descriptions, and the lush vegetation, abundant land and good infrastructure have made the region a hot-spot for game reserves and a logical extension to the Garden Route, saving visitors to the popular Western Cape destination a long and costly journey to the reserves of the Lowveld.

One of the newest game reserves to open its doors in the area is Pumba Private Game Reserve, just 20 kilometres from the cathedral spires of Grahamstown. Covering over 6000 hectares of thornveld, grassland, thicket and forest, the land used to be a cattle and chicory farm, but is slowly returning to the way it was nearly 200 years ago.

Morning and evening game drives through the reserve are obviously the main attraction, with all of the Big Five in attendance. The Pumba animals have been busy this year too, with baby hippo, elephant and rhino all arriving in the last few months, much to visitors’ delight.

Aloes — a favourite snack of the elephants — grow in abundance, forests of river euphorbias poke out above the thicket, while acres and acres of acacia trees stretch in every direction. No wonder the giraffes look so happy!

Pumba is also justifiably proud of its white lion population, saved from a canned hunting breeding programme in the Free State. In between the morning and afternoon game drives guests can go bird-watching (the reserve boasts over 300 different species), cast a line for the wily black bass in the lake or just kick back and relax.

Stylish lodge is a highlight

The lodge and suites, overlooking the northern reaches of the Kariega Dam, are undoubtedly the highlight of a stay at Pumba. Thankfully, the lodge hasn’t fallen into the over-the-top Africana trap many reserves succumb to. While there are the requisite animal prints on the wall and the odd zebra skin tossed over an armchair they’re balanced by the modern furnishings, with sleek suede couches and stylish teak furniture bringing a touch of the city to a safari.

The 12 stone-walled suites each boast private decks overlooking the dam, with plunge pool, outdoor shower and a spacious deck for you to soak up the sun and spot eland on the opposite shore. The open-plan bedroom and lounge — far larger than my first apartment — offer floor to ceiling views of the dam and reserve, so you can happily scout for game from the comfort of your room. When the day-shift ends the nocturnal hippo take over, piercing the night air with their contented grunts. That’s the only sound you’re likely to hear too… there are no TVs or radios in the room, so you can forget all about who’s been voted off Survivor and just soak up the silence.

Best of all, the suites have each been stylishly decorated, with not an animal skin or African drum in sight, so instead of avoiding the glare of a mounted head on the wall you can kick back and enjoy the cosy fireplace, spacious bathroom and awesome views. The row of suites has been cleverly designed to ensure complete privacy, so whether you’re enjoying the outside shower or just relaxing with a book it’s easy to completely forget about the outside world.

What also sets Pumba apart from many other reserves is the thoughtful touches at every turn — binoculars and a bird book conveniently at hand on the deck, gourmet snacks in your room and hot water bottles in bed at night.

Watch out for wandering wildebeest!

A stay at Pumba is an all-inclusive affair, with three gourmet meals and local drinks included in the price. Your choice of wine is however restricted to the house red (a drinkable cabernet from Simonsvlei) and white (a bone-dry grand cru), so don’t go expecting a vinous experience. Neither really do justice to the food, which is a welcome change from the meat-heavy fare on offer at most lodges. Yes, there is steak and game available, but you can also enjoy a great selection of fish and vegetarian dishes, and if it’s not busy they’ll even whip up whatever you’re in the mood for.

After dinner, don’t forget to ask for an escort back to your suite as there are no fences separating the lodge and suites from the reserve. If the wildebeest aren’t raiding the garden the ellies are sure to be wandering through, and you’ll be surprised at just how quiet a six-ton herbivore can be!

Pumba is a young reserve, so there’s no guarantee of seeing everything on every drive, but it’s certainly a great way to experience the Big Five without trekking to the north. The distant lights of the N2 occasionally remind you that the Eastern Cape reserves certainly aren’t the vast tracts of untamed wilderness that you find up north, but at just a few hours drive from the tourist hotspots of the Western Cape it’s an accessible, and affordable, way for visitors to the region to enjoy a memorable Big Five safari experience.

    For more info...
  • Pumba Private Game Reserve is part of Protea Hotels' African Pride Collection. For more information call (021) 430 5000 or email info@africanpridehotels.com.
  • Pumba is situated 105 kilometres east of Port Elizabeth, just off the N2 national road, and 20kms from Grahamstown.
  • Pressed for time? Pumba also offers day safaris, which include two game drives and lunch in the reserve.