The trail head was a new hut just behind the coastal dunes over the river from
Nature's Valley. Like all other accommodation we were to use, it's an attractive
log cabin with a separate kitchen shelter, a hot-water bucket shower and flush
toilets.
Only at Kalander, though, do you sleep to the roar of the breakers. As we packed
up for the night, a nosy genet came visiting and in the morning there were tracks
of Cape clawless otters on the beach.
The path led up steeply behind the hut onto Douwurmkop, then dived into a delicious
indigenous and blackwood forest draped in old man's beard. Fallen logs sported
ears of orange bracket fungi and a chorister robin-chat was living up to its
new name in the undergrowth.
About 10 kilometres from the start we lunched at Staircase Falls, a sheet of
glistening black
rock with a stream bounding down it into an inviting pool.
The hut, when it finally appeared beyond a pocket of forest, was perched on
a cliff above the Bloukrans River with glorious views of Formosa Peak, at 1650
metres the highest point in the range.
Our luggage was waiting for us, as were our provisions. After the luxury of
a warm shower, the aromas emanating from the lapa where one of our party was
beavering away over the fire, soon lured six hikers and a genet to a fish braai
with salads and some good Cape white wine.
Day 2: Blaauwkrantz to Keurbos — 13,4 km, 6 hours
Graeme had said this would be the easiest leg. It wasn't — despite being lightly loaded. The sun glared down and, though Buffelsbos Forest offered shade, most of the hike was in shadeless fynbos along the shoulder of the 1030-metre Klein Benebos Mountain, which seemed to trap the heat and roast the valley.
A welcome relief was the Bloukrans River where one of our party ripped off his clothes and plunged into the icy mountain waters. The rest of us applauded, but chickened out.
After clambering out of the river valley, a 500-metre contour offered about four kilometres of level hiking with some nasty hakea infestation among kolkol and heaths of erica, pelargoniums and giant proteas. Victorin's warblers sang us along our way. Then we dropped into the deliciously cool Benebos Forest, a riot of rooiels (Cunonia capensis), keurboom (Virgilla oroboides) and tree fuchsia (Schotia brachypetala).
When 12 tired feet finally stomped into Keurbos Hut, their owners would be roused only by butternut soup and pasta. And, yes, another genet visited.
Day 3: Keurbos to Heuningbos — 13,4 km, 6 hours
From Keurbos the path wound down to the Lottering River, which we crossed clutching a suspended chain. The day was chilly and threatened rain, but it held off and, as we tramped up Rushes Pass, more and more deep valleys appeared below.
From the neck the view was nothing but glorious, unpeopled mountains. Secretive, moist forests clustered in steep cleavages and orange-breasted sunbirds busied themselves in the fynbos.
From there the trail descended into a stream bed with water trickling over bright
yellow boulders, then led into a deep wood with its floor covered in wild pomegranate,
witch hazel and prehistoric seven-week ferns. A few more hill climbs and forest
plunges later the hut appeared and we scampered into the lapa as the rain finally
came down.
While Marinella, our Italian hiker, prepared a meal we'd never forget, the birders traded sightings. Amethyst sunbird, olive bush shrike, black-backed puff-back, red-billed wood hoopoe, Knysna turaco, jackal buzzard, Victorin's warbler, southern boubou, scaly-throated honeyguide, black-headed oriole, Cape rock thrush, Knysna woodpecker, chorister robin-chat.... They were happy.
We ate Teglia di cecci (chickpea and pork stew) and Italian salad, drank cheap, boxed red wine that tasted like a fine claret and finished off with dark French chocolate. Then we passed out. The only sounds that penetrated the night were the gentle hoot of a wood owl, the scuffle of bushpigs and the pitter-patter of a spotted genet.
Day 4: Heuningbos to Sleepkloof — 14,2 km, 7 hours
The map suggested we were in for a rough day so we got up early despite a few throbbing heads. Soon we were puffing up Splendid Pass. Behind us were the nested, Russian-doll saddles, but ahead looked like trouble.
The path plunged into a forest and emerged beyond it on a slope that went up
and up into the sky. Nademaalsnek, the map informed us, was 700 metres high
and 10 kilometres from the day's start. We made it, eventually, and gazed into
the gorges of the Storms River. Far below, like a flea on a rumpled green bedspread,
was Sleepkloof, the final hut. Beyond that, the sea.
On the tramp down the fynbos was way above our heads. Then the forest replaced it and swallowed us with the rustle of countless nodding leaves.
"There's still lots of food here," said Marinella that evening. "We just have to eat it." So the last great cook-in began. "Thank heavens we didn't have to carry it," someone sighed as we lay back later, stuffed. "I think I could get into this slackpacking."
Next morning and three kilometres later — on the fifth day — we were in the diesel-smelling, rackety confines of the Storms River Petroport. It was, to put it mildly, a nasty shock.
For more information, visit www.mtoecotourism.co.za.