Wandering with the whales....

A lazy Sunday afternoon spent sipping pina coladas on a tropical island maybe, but for me not much else comes close to the feeling of tranquillity you get on a hiking trail.

And it seems I’m not the only one who thinks so, with availability for the Otter, Swellendam and Tsitsikamma trails being scarcer than water in the Fish River Canyon on a July afternoon.

A name that’s already being mentioned in the same breath as these renowned routes is the Whale Trail, so I was keen to tramp along its 55 kilometres myself.

Into the hills....
After a hilly three-hour drive from Cape Town, past endless wheat fields and the town of Bredasdorp, we arrived at Potberg. Situated in the heart of De Hoop Nature Reserve it’s where you spend your first night, comfortably getting into an outdoor state of mind before heading off into nature — and the hike’s most strenuous day.

Great views from the top

Expecting the worst (“this is the toughest stretch of the trail” reads the brochure) we set off early, powered by muesli and stocked up on enough snacks for a five-year-old’s birthday party. Thankfully it was nowhere near the purgatory we’d expected although the steady climb to the top of Potberg is a bit of a slog at times. But the climb, through fields of fynbos, was well worth the effort with breathtaking views from the top. This peak is also one of the few places you can spot the rare Cape Vulture, although none made an appearance during our rest-stop.

All that remained for the rest of the day was to make the gradual descent to the overnight hut at Cupidoskraal. Along the way we enjoyed a leisurely lunch at the Melkhout River, although the water looked way too cold for a swim. So did the dam at Cupidoskraal, which meant that soaking my tired, and sweaty, feet was the closest I got to donning my costume.

Day two was greeted with a few aching muscles, but there wasn’t much time to curse my non-existent fitness levels as we soon set off on the almost 15km trek to Noetsie. Almost as long as day one, it seemed less taxing though. After a short climb (followed by a coffee break, of course) most of the day was spent walking along the relatively flat Potberg plateau while admiring the Indian Ocean and winding Breede River below.

Less obvious, but clearly indicated on the map, was the gradual change in the fynbos around us as the trail lead onto a region of limestone hills before descending to the coast. My legs, which felt like the jellybabies in my hip sack, suddenly gained new strength as I saw the enchanting bay of Noetsie lying ahead of us. The most strenuous part of the hike was over and that night I curled up in my sleeping bag thinking of the relaxed day ahead.

No whale, no cry...
A leisurely 7.8 kilometre stretch, day three provided the first real indication of the trail’s name. After a late start we headed along the undemanding path which hugs the rugged coastline providing a superb vantage point for whale watching. I kept looking out to sea in the hope of spotting some of the more than 100 southern right whales that return to De Hoop each year to calve and mate.

The cave at Stilgat

As the day’s walk was short we decided to take the detour to Stilgat which involves clambering down a chain ladder to the beach below. Apart from the myriad rock pools to explore, it's an ideal spot for swimming and snorkelling as well. Heading back to the path there were a number of good whale watching spots and, when I heard the magical words “Look! There they are!” coming from the front of our party, I immediately looked out to sea.

The sight of two whales, clearly a mother and child, breaching and lobtailing playfully instantly made me forget about the climb on day one. After enjoying the show, seemingly put on just for us, the trail turned into a long slog on a sandy beach. Stretching all the way to the overnight stop at Hamerkop, it prompted me to take off my shoes with glee to feel the wet sand between my toes. Better than a soak in a tub.

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