'It was all rather confusing. The road sign had read "Nylstroom 10", yet less than 10 kays down the road there was another sign, "Welcome to Modimolle."
Confusing unless you remember that most of Limpopo Province's major towns have undergone recent name changes. Confusing unless you know Modimolle is a local name for Kranskop peak (1337 metres) near Nylstroom (it means 'place of the spirits'). Confusing unless you have an up-to-date map.
Don't be confused. Buy a new map, pack your hiking boots, binoculars, cameras and field guides and head up the great North Road.... To a region TV Bulpin described in his classic book 'Discovering Southern Africa', back in 1970, as a "kaleidoscope in its colour and spectacle". To the Waterberg, a prime malaria-free wilderness area, with private game lodges and reserves offering hikes, horse trails and self-drive options.
To Nylsvley, South Africa's largest inland floodplain. A birder's paradise where specials like the streaky-breasted flufftail can be added to your lifer list. Further north to hike and explore the mythical slopes of the Soutpansberg, or photograph baobabs on the banks of the Limpopo River.
Or to the under-rated, under-populated northern section of the Kruger National Park. Not as game-rich or green as the central and southern regions, but quieter: Punda Maria and Shingwedzi have long been the peaceful haunt of discerning Kruger visitors.
The real gems of Limpopo Province however, are the 4x4 trails. Many are within easy day-trip distance from Jozi, most have lovely accommodation, and each one offers a unique window on the province.
SCHAMACH 4X4 TRAILS
Difficulty: 2 to 5
Minimum time: Four hours
Guide available on request
Cost: R120 a vehicle if camping, R170 a vehicle for day visitors
Maximum: 15 vehicles
The lowdown
A tricky 15km trail
winding up, down, over and through steep drifts, riverbanks,
solid rock slabs and Waterberg hills. There isn't much cruising time between
the obstacles with names which read like an Afrikaans horror story such as As-af
(broken axle) and Bliksem. But when you do stop, make sure you look around.
The floral diversity created by three distinct habitats on the farm is amazing. The montane sourveld on the higher areas is dominated by sugarbush proteas. Yellowwoods and wild lavender trees thrive in the valleys and the mixed veld of the lower bushveld environment makes up the lower-lying areas. There are two camp sites, both with lapas, flush toilets and warm water; R40 a person a night.
Schamach take note of: Birding at Nylsvley, South Africa's largest inland floodplain.
The way there: Turn left off the R101 at the Schamach sign, 10 km from Modimolle towards Mookgophong. Schamach lies 3km along the dirt road.
Make a plan: Contact Koos du Preez, tel 014-717-5890 or 083-411-1894, or Tinus Lindeque, tel 082-828-5357 or e-mail que.que@absamail.co.za.
SHELANTI GAME RANCH
Difficulty: 2
Minimum time: Four hours
Guided (compulsory)
Maximum: Five vehicles (minimum two)
The lowdown
An adventure route rather than a classic 4x4 trail. The guided self-drive route on well-tended dirt tracks delivers on the promise of a family game-viewing outing. There's an abundance of game, with four of the Big Five, free-roaming on the 11 000-hectare property and a small pride of lions in a large camp.
Although fairly undemanding and suited to soft-roaders, certain basic 4x4 skills are still needed. There's a beach-like section along the length of a sandy riverbed (in the dry season) that's as fun and rally-like as any.
Shelanti take note of : The abundance of game, including a herd of rare roan antelope.
The way there: Shelanti is 11km along the R518 from Marken, but the R518 from Mokopane to Marken is closed for maintenance, so take the N11 to Baltimore. Just before Baltimore turn left towards Marken. Shelanti is 17 km from Baltimore.
Make a plan: Contact Piet Snyman, tel 014-765-0097 or 082-900-51228767, e-mail whoek@lantic.net or visit http://www.shelanti.co.za.
MABOTE RIVER CAMP
Difficulty: 3
Minimum time: Two hours
Not guided
Maximum: 10 vehicles
The lowdown
On any of the four distinct trails, or relaxing at the riverside lodges, you'd hardly know you were on a working cattle farm. Well laid-out and clearly marked, the trails run on
different parts of the farm and vary in difficulty and terrain.
You could do all four in one day, but rather make a weekend out of it. Go in summer when various dams make for fine birding, fishing and challenging muddy sections to get real country dirt on your 4x4. There are two self-catering lodges on the banks of the Mabote River (R175 to R240 a person a night). Camping (with hot showers and flush toilets) costs R45 a person a night.
Mabote take note of : Two well-preserved rock-art sites, both within hiking distance of the lodges.
The way there: From Mokopane take the R101 to Mookgophong; after 12km turn right towards Doorndraai Dam. After 40km this road becomes a dirt road; Mabote is on the left, another 6km further.
Make a plan: Contact Esmé Peens, tel 015-453-0792, fax 015-453-0631, e-mail info@mabote.com or visit http://www.mabote.com MATEKE GAME FARM
Difficulty: 3 to 4
Minimum time: Five hours
Not guided
Maximum: Eight vehicles
The lowdown
A gruelling 23 km of wade-first river crossings, rocky climbs and steep downhills of which 'white-knuckle' is the king: It's a slope so steep that the grader blazing the trail couldn't make an angled descent. The driver lost control and went crashing straight down the mountain. What would've been a hairy downhill (if it were angled) is now a psycho adrenaline pumper.
The technicality of the trail requires that you remove your vehicle's running boards, deflate the tyres (140km/h), take recovery equipment (hi-lift jack and snatch rope) and preferably go with more than one vehicle. Don't worry if you get stuck, an accurate trail map is provided at reception and hiking's popular in these parts.
Mateke take note of: Two beautiful hiking trails and the nearby Marakele National Park.
The way there: From Vaalwater take the R501 towards Thabazimbi; after 40km turn left to Thabazimbi. After 10km turn left onto the Diamant dirt road. After 15km turn left onto the Schoongelegen road; Mateke is on your left, less than a kilometre further.
Make a plan: Phone Anvie Ventures on 021-662-1140, or Theresa Meintjies at Mateke, tel 014-779-0719, e-mail mateke@telkomsa.net.
GROOTWATER
Difficulty: 3
Minimum time: Three hours
Not guided
The lowdown
At Grootwater a rocky road doesn't lead to the stars (as the saying goes) but rather to another rocky road. What the trail lacks in variety, however, it makes up for in bum-numbing hill training and wide vistas over the Waterberg.
For a smoother ride, deflate your tyres to around 140 kpa.
Grootwater take note of: Fishing in the dam in front of the camp site.
The way there: Take the R33 from Vaalwater towards Lephalale for 49km, turn left onto the Witkop dirt road. Grootwater is on your left 11km down the road.
Make a plan: Contact Anvie Ventures, tel 021-662-1140 or Grootwater, tel 014-755-3974.
POPALLIN RANCH
Difficulty: 3 - 4
Minimum time: Eight hours
Guided (compulsory)
Minimum: Four vehicles
The drive
Sand driving is an exceptional rush low tyre pressures, slightly higher speeds and that floating feeling. Or is it the fact that the steering almost has a mind of its own and you're just along for the ride?
Popallin Ranch offers challenging sand driving in and around the Limpopo River, with short stints through the surrounding game-rich Bushveld. But don't think you won't encounter any rocks on the full-day trip.
The brunch on an island in the middle of the river is almost as enjoyable as watching your buddy getting stuck at the top of the dune you just conquered on the first attempt.
Popallin take note of: Nearby Tshipise hot springs, and Popallin's private golf course.
The way there: Turn off the R525 50km from Tshipise, at the Popallin sign.
Make a plan: Contact Popallin Ranch, tel 015-534-7904, fax 015-534-7905, e-mail popallin@popallin.co.za.
TAAIBOS
Difficulty: 2 -3
Minimum time: Five hours
Not guided
Maximum: 20 vehicles
The lowdown
Another classic Waterberg rock challenge with 14km of steep climbs, demanding descents and some serious river rock driving. The multiple river crossings can become very interesting during the wet season.
Besides a satisfying drive, there's plenty to see: viewpoints and picnic spots are clearly marked and there are various rock-art sites along the route.
Taaibos take note of: The abundance of game in the Waterberg conservancy, Pedi and Bushman rock art.
The way there: Taaibos lies 30km west of Vaalwater on the R510 towards Thabazimbi.
How to book: Phone Christo Pistorius, tel 014-754-4462 or 082-670-0792.
SERENDIPIDITY TRAILS
Difficulty: 2 to 3
Minimum time: Three hours
Guide on request (R250 extra)
The lowdown
An option of three trails which vary in length, terrain and difficulty. Low range is a must for all. The longer three-hour trail is not really a vehicle tester and is ideal for families to enjoy the area, its game and prolific birds.
The shorter challenge trails are re-commended for experienced drivers.
Go for the weekend and do all three.Serendipity take note of: Various hiking trails and a spectacular natural swimming hole.
The way there: Serendipity lies 23km from Modimolle on the R101.
Make a plan: Contact Johan Klopper, tel 014-743-3540 or 082-552-2716, e-mail, info@serendipity.co.za or visit http://www.serendipity-trails.co.za.
NONOKANI ADVENTURE TRAIL (KRUGER PARK)
Difficulty: 1
Minimum time: Five hours
Not guided Cost: R460 a vehicle and R100 deposit (refundable when you report back after the drive)
Maximum: Six vehicles
The drive
Driving on ranger's roads, firebreaks and jeep tracks is a different way to see the Kruger Park. Not only do you feel like you're the sole vehicle in the park (almost unthinkable), but you're also allow-ed to leave your
vehicle under certain conditions of course.
Nonokani take note of: Buffalo, hippo and elephant in and around the Olifants River.
The way there: The trail starts 11km from the Phalaborwa Gate.
Make a plan: Book at Phalaborwa Gate on the morning of the trail, tel 013-735-6509.
NORTHERN PLAINS TRAIL (KRUGER PARK)
Difficulty: 1
Minimum time: Four hours
Not guided
The drive
A gentle 48km cruise, starting at Babalala picnic spot, 33km north of Shingwedzi. Easy as off-roading goes, but then the focus is on game viewing and seeing Kruger in a different way.
Northern plains take note of: The roan breeding camp near the starting point.
The way there: The trail starts about 30km north of Shingwedzi on the H1-7.
Make a plan: Book at Shingwedzi reception on the morning of the trail. Phone 013-735-4030.
This feature originally appeared in Getaway Magazine. For more, visit getawaytoafrica.co.za