Kenya, Tanzania and Mozambique are famous for their pristine nature reserves, but equally alluring is the cluster of islands dotted off their shores. This region is being called Africa’s Caribbean, and rightfully so. See why Lamu, Matemo and Zanzibar are garnering world-wide acclaim.

Matemo (Mozambique)
The tiny (8km long x 3km wide) Matemo Island ranks as one of the most beautiful islands in the Quirimbas Archipelago, with private beaches and countless coves waiting to be explored. The only tourist development here is Matemo Island Resort, the quintessential tropical island paradise. 24 palm-thatched chalets face a pristine beach, each bungalow is air-conditioned, with sea-facing en-suite bathroom, mini-bar, and an open-air shower at the back.

A lush Zanzibari-style restaurant and bar overlooks a large swimming pool, and guests who wish to do more than eat the wonderfully cooked fresh fish, throw back the chilled Mozambican beer or lounge on the perfect beach, can take a hike around the island. One can also dive, snorkel, go whale watching or enjoy a number of watersports in the Quirimbas Marine National Park.

September to April is the best diving season. Deep-sea fishing is also excellent, with marlin, sailfish, tuna and wahoo prevalent. Across the bay is the World Heritage Site of Ibo Island — a fascinating day excursion.

  • How to get there: By small aircraft from Pemba, a 30-minute flight over the magnificent Quirimbas Archipelago.
  • Where to stay: Matemo Island Resort. www.raniresorts.com or tel 011-467-1277.

Lamu (Kenya)
If you like your holiday spots relaxed and remote, Lamu Island with its sweeping beaches, hidden creeks and rolling sand dunes, is the place of choice. The modern world has had little visible impact on the historic Swahili town, where narrow, cool, alleys lead past intricately carved doorways and hole-in-the-wall shops.

The streets, lit by lanterns at night, lead to intimate squares enclosed by large stone and coral-walled buildings. There are no cars (bar one old Land Rover), so locals and tourists get around by donkey or on foot. The most important form of transport is the traditional sailing dhow, which still plays a vital role in the life and livelihood of the island.

A trip on one of these wooden boats is the best way to explore the mangrove swamps and neighbouring islands. Freshly caught fish braaied Lamu-style on a remote beach is a superb meal after a morning of sailing and snorkelling. Once a strategic port and trading centre, Lamu has a mix of East African, Arabian, Indian, Portuguese and Victorian British influences, going back over a thousand years. The aroma of spices and grilled food fills the air around the markets, mosques, museums, fort and ancient houses.

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Courtesy GQ magazine
Shela, a 10-minute dhow ride (or half an hour’s stroll) from Lamu is smaller, quieter and more upmarket. Princess Caroline of Monaco has a house here. There is a hotel, some restaurants, a few art galleries and boutiques, but the place still retains its historic character. Accommodation is available at guesthouses, whitewashed villas and beach huts.

Yellowfin tuna, kingfish and marlin are plentiful, and the mangrove wetlands are home to an abundance of large crabs and lobsters. Fishermen sell these daily, and Banana House has a resident chef who will gladly turn your freshly bought catch into a memorable meal taken on the verandah of this popular guesthouse.

Being a traditional Islamic community, there are limited places to buy alcohol. However Peponi Hotel on Shela is a wonderful spot for sundowners. The restaurant food that follows is delicious island fare with coconut sauce, limes, cinnamon, cumin, cardamom, chillies, garlic, and ginger all prominent.

  • Where to stay: Peponi Hotel is a house that grew into a hotel. It’s intimate and cheerful, with just 24 rooms and a fresh-water pool beneath two baobab trees overlooking the ocean. Banana House is set in a lush tropical garden.
  • How to get there: From Nairobi or Mombasa to Manda Island by air, and transfer to Lamu or Shela by motorboat.

Zanzibar (Tanzania)
Like Lamu, Zanzibar is an island steeped in exotic history. And, like Ibo Island, it had its share of tragedy during the slave trade. The Portuguese, British, Persians and Arabian traders all took turns over the years at reconstructing the capital Stone Town.

Today, the island about 30km off the coast of Tanzania, is a spicy mix of mystery and magic. Once the world’s biggest producer of cloves, today the spice island draws tourists attracted to its white sandy beaches and unspoilt rainforests.

Stone Town is a place of winding alleys and bustling bazaars. Traders at the evening market on the harbour front sellan array of fresh fish which they grill for you on the spot. A meal under the stars, with Stone Town’s House of Wonder as a backdrop, is hard to beat for atmosphere. A visit to this museum – damaged in 1896 by a shell fired during the Shortest War in History (40 minutes) – tells you more about this mysterious island.

  • Where to stay: Serena Inn in Stone Town. Daily flights from OR Tambo to Dar Es Salaam, with a regional flight to Zanzibar Island.

Ibo Island (Mozambique)
Ibo Island, one of Africa’s oldest settlements, is also one of its best-kept secrets. The island was colonised by the Portuguese long before the Mozambican mainland, due to its fresh water and strategic position as a trading centre. This trade included slaves coming from the interior, who were incarcerated in the São João Batista fort.

The fortress, now partially restored, was originally built by the Ibo people as protection from attacks. It became a political prison during the colonial period. Today silversmiths ply their trade here, fashioning delicate silver bracelets and pendants from melted down old coins found on nearby shipwrecks.

The days are quiet and tranquil, with activities limited somewhat by the heat. Wander around the crumbling churches and buildings in the town, and get lost in the remote and harsh beauty of the place. The fort, refuge of slave traders, torturers and pirates, is a fascinating place to visit.

What used to be the governor’s mansion is now the beautifully renovated colonial-style Ibo Island Lodge. The air-conditioned rooms have locally crafted furniture and comfortable beds covered by mosquito netting. Fresh seafood dishes with vegetables from the garden await you.

Crisp, white wines, something of a rarity on the island, are served. Cinco Portas (the five-door lodge) offers basic rooms and serves good food with a strong Swahili influence. Wash it down with a local Laurentina beer.

  • How to get there: By small aircraft from Pemba. From Matemo Island by boat (for guests staying at the resort).

Published courtesy of GQ magazine.