Sophia Loren made it famous, and Jackie O used to tan on its beaches. It's been featured in countless movies and is the Mediterannean holiday spot of Europe's glitterati. From sheer cliffs plunging into azure water, to spotless beaches and quaint villages, the island of Capri off the coast of Italy is a holiday dream come true.

There are a few places in the world that you simply have to see before you die, and the island of Capri is certainly one of them.

Getting there
Naples, the closest mainland town, is easily accessible by train from Rome’s airport with the trip taking around two hours. From the central train station in Naples, there are buses or trams to Piazza Municipio, and from there it's just a short walk to the Beverello harbour, where Ferries known as 'aliscafi' leave for Capri frequently. The sea journey takes about an hour to complete — and for those without sea legs, it's smooth sailing all the way!

Your arrival in Capri will make you wonder why you didn’t get there sooner, and, when you leave, you’ll feel that not even a lifetime on this isola d’amore (island of love) would ever be enough.

Getting around
The best way to see the island is by scooter, available for hire from €50 per day at Oasi Motor in Capri’s Marina Grande — where the ferries arrive. However, there are also frequent and inexpensive buses that traverse the island, as well as the unique Capri taxi. These luxurious white convertibles hark back to a long-gone era of glamour and style.

The best part about Capri is Anacapri — the prefix 'ana' literally meaning 'higher'. The lower part of the island has two main drawbacks — in high season it’s jam-packed with shopping-crazed day trippers (who leave in the late afternoon) as its hotels are — for the average citizen — prohibitively expensive.

Conversely, Anacapri has many excellent hotels — from two to five stars — and rates begin at a more realistic €85 per day. The best time to visit is either June or September because, while these months are considered high season, the weather is still warm enough to swim and there are less crowds. Some useful names include Hotel Carmencita (decent-sized, clean rooms; internet access; very close to Anacapri’s main square) and Hotel Bellavista (the manager, Chiara, is able to give guests really useful information in English about the best walks, beaches, and bars).

In summer, il tramonto (sunset) happens between 8.30 and 9pm and is best viewed at the lighthouse called Faro di Punta Carena. It’s a magical moment that is taken quite seriously by locals and tourists alike. Faro is also the home to the best bar on the island; Expo Capri. Superbly run by owners Fabio and Vittorio, the bar offers a wide selection of freshly-made cocktails — try the Mojito with fresh mint, or the peachy Beach Vodka Sour — as well as great music and an ambience that is perfect for the end of a sun-drenched day.

From Anacapri’s Piazza Vittoria there are also a number of restaurants within walking distance or a short bus ride away. Agora in Piazza Caprile, with its characteristic sign of a crescent moon, has great food, music and service. Also excellent is Il Cucciolo — but this is no longer a well-kept secret and a reservation is essential. The food at Lido del Faro is pricier but also worthwhile — especially the pasta caprese; ravioli filled with three of the island’s cheeses.

Restaurant dining is not the only option though. The 'alimentari' (grocery stores) are a great and inexpensive source of food. Dimeglio, for example, is a good place from which to buy fresh bread, heavenly cheese and meats, wine, water and fruit on a daily basis. If you are a food lover, nothing can beat a fresh ciabatta filled with creamy mozzarella di bufala, basil and sweet, intensely-flavoured tomatoes. Well-stocked, you then head off on your scooter to find a picnic spot... anywhere will do — the views are majestic!

Anacapri also has many walking trails with scenery that will either bring tears to your eyes or knock the air out of your lungs. Either way, no-one is left unaffected.

One of these trails can be found by taking the Monte Solaro chair lift. At 589 metres above sea level, the view of the island’s beloved Faraglioni rocks is unmatched (one of these rocks is home to a species of blue lizard that exists nowhere else in the world). The journey up takes about 12 minutes and costs €4.50 and the walk down includes the Church of Santa Maria di Cetrella, run by Carmine Russo and his brother, Ottavia. It’s highly likely that you will be invited in for a coffee and a look at the panoramic views.

Where to hit the water
At the Faraglioni rocks, Da Luigi and La Fontelina beaches are the most popular. Access costs from €10 per day, but this is well worth it, as the free beaches can become overcrowded. Paid-for beaches also offer full facilities such as lockers, toilets, towels, umbrellas and showers. On the other side of the island, the Faro di Punta Carena has a beautifully sheltered bay in which to swim, while the Nettuno restaurant at Grotta Azzurra offers free sea access to its patrons, so have an ice-cold limoncello and jump in!