Wet and wild in Zambia

The crocs he was referring to were the twelve-foot-plus toothy residents of the Zambezi River as it flows languidly past Livingstone, Zambia's new golden child of tourism and the spot that's fast becoming Africa's adventure capital.

Tiger fishing is just one of the options on offer for the adventure-hungry tourists that flock to the Zambian side of the Victoria Falls, fists clenched with dollars, pounds — and occasionally rands — to spend on seeing and experiencing the mighty Zambezi.

But while the famous Falls might justifiably grab the lion's share of the limelight, it's actually the Zambezi itself which is the real powerhouse behind the boom in and around Livingstone, offering a multitude of ways to get wet and wild in Zambia.

The most popular way to do that, of course, is river rafting. With dozens of rapids ranging from bumpy fun to bloody frightening, the Zambezi is widely regarded as one of the top rivers in the world for white-water thrills. If you've got your heart set on going, remember that the river gets too high for rafting towards the end of summer, so check with a river operator (Safari Par Excellence are a popular choice) before you book.

Make sure take along good shoes (the walk in and out of the Batoka gorge is steep and slippery) and bucket loads of sun-block, as the tropical sun is vicious.

If you reckon rafting below the Falls is a one-way ticket to a watery grave, there's always the more sedate option of canoeing above the Falls. There's still the sense of adventure though, and as you pick your way along the banks of the Zambezi you're sure to find yourself getting up close and personal with a hippo or two.

But if even that sounds like too much exertion in the African sun, you can always go colonial and live like royalty on the old-style African Queen cruiser. There are three two-hour cruises a day, but the sunset option is by far the most appealing. What better way to see the third largest river in Africa than propped up at the bar of an old-style cruiser, G&T at hand, as you motor along the shores of the Mosi-au-Tunya National Park…

But despite the range of activities on offer it is, of course, the spectacular Falls themselves that everybody comes to see.

Flocking to the Falls

At 1.7-kilometres wide, 100m high and with 540-million litres of water plummeting over the edge every minute, the spectacular 'Smoke that Thunders' is the largest curtain of falling water on the planet. They're at their most impressive in April, when the summer rains swell the Falls to thunderous proportions. Make sure you take a raincoat though, as once that famous 'smoke' has gone up it has to come down, and it falls in sheets on unsuspecting tourists.

Dr. Livingstone may have camped amongst the malaria and the wildlife on an island just above the Falls on his voyage of discovery, but modern day visitors are simply spoilt for choice when it comes to where to stay.

While there are a number of backpackers and affordable accommodation options in Livingstone town and upstream of the Falls, the two Sun International resorts on the banks of the Zambezi, a stone's throw from the cascade, are simply unbeaten when it comes to that timeless rule of location, location, location.

Livingstone, who famously described seeing the Falls as "scenes so lovely must have been gazed upon by angels in their flight," would have been spurred to even great eloquence had he first seen them from the riverside sundowner deck at the Royal Livingstone, icy G&T in hand.

Paradise comes at a price

The 173 rooms of the Royal Livingstone are generously spread out along the banks of the Zambezi, giving it more the feel of a sprawling country estate than an international hotel. Zebra grazing on the lawns, monkeys causing trouble in the trees and the prospect of drinks just a stone's throw from the Falls complete the picture of an idyllic Zambezi getaway

There are some excellent package deals available for accommodation and flights to the Falls, but while the living may be easy it certainly ain't cheap. Once you’re there expect to pay in the region of $50 a head for dinner, and another $50 if an average bottle of wine takes your fancy.

It’s a small price to pay though for this once in a lifetime experience — from the pith-helmeted doormen to the ever-friendly staff decked out in requisite African safari gear, a stay at the Royal Livingstone is a wonderfully luxurious throwback to genteel colonial living. Drinks at seven, dinner at eight and African adventures all day long on the mighty Zambezi.

More on the Victoria Falls

• Find out more on Livingstone and the Falls from Zambia Tourism
• South African Airways fly from Johannesburg to Livingstone three times per week. They also fly daily to Victoria Falls airport on the Zimbabwean side of the Falls.
• Visit Sun international to find our more about the Royal Livingstone Hotel. The more affordable Zambezi Sun next door is well-suited to families and groups, and is becoming a popular destination for conferences and incentives.
• Safari Par Excellence is one of the most established tour operators at the Falls and offer a range of adventure activities. Most activities (rafting, bungee jumping etc) cost in the region of $100 per person.