Few South Africans have heard of Watamu, just south of Malindi, on the north Kenyan coast. Until my Scottish cousin announced that he was getting married there, I hadn’t either. The Brits are quite fond of the place; in fact, many have holiday homes on the coast and you’ll hear plenty of plummy accents as you sit around the bar or stroll on the long, unspoiled white beaches.

However, somehow this little haven seems to have escaped the notice of most tourists, which is why I’m somewhat reluctant to share my discovery — part of Watamu’s charm is that it’s such a well-kept secret. Here are some of the highlights...

Be a beach bum

It’s easy to while away the time swimming, sunbathing, snorkelling, playing in the lagoon or walking along the seemingly endless beach (rated by the Sunday Times as being one of the top 10 beaches in the world). Kayaks are available at the resorts and if you really want an active holiday Turtle Bay Beach Club is just the ticket. Your holiday, paid for upfront, includes all watersports, tennis, aqua-aerobics, all manner of other activities, and, of course, unlimited food and drink.

Dive the coral reefs

The waters off Watamu were designated as a marine reserve in 1963 — the first marine park to be established in East Africa — and the reefs are pristine and quiet. There are approximately 20 different dive sites and the policy of only one boat per dive site ensures that there’s no overcrowding.

If you’re a non-diver, there’s also wonderful snorkelling on the shallow reef. Aqua Ventures, the top dive operation, is run by Steve and Helen Curtis, who operate out of the Ocean Sports Hotel in a circular tower structure that reminded me of Fairview Wine Estate — I kept expecting goats to poke their heads out of the upper ‘classroom’ windows.

Established in 1989, Aqua Ventures is renowned for its high standards and professionalism. Steve heads up a team of three instructors and a divemaster. All the local boat captains and crew are divers themselves and are familiar with the area and dive equipment.

The outer fringing reef, where most of the sites are, lies about a kilometre off, and parallel to, the beach. The top of the reef lies between 7m and 14m, dropping down to a sandy bottom at between 22m and 30m. The Indian Ocean is well known for it’s vast numbers and different species of fish. Watamu is no exception and the absence of spearfishing means that the fish aren’t skittish around divers.

Dives here offer up anything from the smaller stuff, such as beautiful nudibranchs and leaf fish, to amazing critters like frogfish, octopus and crocodile fish. Reef fish such as angelfish, butterfly fish, groupers, snappers and parrotfish are abundant and there’s always the chance of seeing turtles, white-tip reef sharks and pelagics such as barracuda, manta rays, whale sharks and dolphins. Contact Aqua Ventures on www.diveinkenya.com.

Hook a marlin

Deep-sea fishing is big in Watamu. The top beach resort is called Hemingway's (a very smart member of the Small Leading Hotels of the World), although Ernest never actually stayed there. Nevertheless, the name, and the fact that there are scales outside every resort, should give you a hint as to how popular the sport is in the area.

The waters are alive with sharks and pelagic fish that seem to leap onto the line. The stag party returned triumphant from their foray beyond the reef. Most of their substantial catch was released, but they hung on to enough for a celebratory braai. Hook up with Alleycat (alleycat@swiftmalindi.com) or check out the resorts for a slice of the action.

Sweat in the swamps

The vast area of Mida Creek, lined with mangrove forest and renowned for its waders, kingfishers and crab plovers, can be explored by boat or boardwalk with a local guide who takes you on a tour of the mangroves, pointing out the features of the swamps, the birds and the beasties. It’s not for the faint-hearted — the wooden walkways suspended in the trees sway hideously as you cross.

At the end of the walkway is a bird hide from which you can watch the flamingos and scuttling crabs and look out over the shallow tidal flats and mangroves. Bird watching, fishing, mangrove walks and leisurely boat trips can be arranged from Watamu or you can simply turn up and arrange a guide.

Be a culture vulture

The Gede Ruins, just outside town, are definitely worth a visit. Take a tour through one of the resorts or local operators, perhaps making a day of it by touring the Arabuko-Sokoke Forest and Mida Creek at the same time. The 12th-century Swahili village was mysteriously abandoned some 600 years ago and is now a national museum.

A guide will explain the various structures and the society that inhabited them, and the site is surrounded by beautiful indigenous forest — a peaceful, shady respite from the beach. Unfortunately, despite the instructions not to feed them, tourists delight in attracting a local troop of Sykes monkeys with bananas. They’re playful to watch, but watch out: they will grab at anything that might be food!

Anyone for a flutter?

At the entrance to the Gede Ruins is the Kipepeo Butterfly Project where the unique butterflies of the Arabuko-Sokoke Forest are bred as part of a project aimed at giving the forest-edge communities opportunities to generate an income directly from the forest. It’s a small, lush hothouse from which butterfly pupae are exported to butterfly centres all over the world.

Toddle through a twitcher’s paradise

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Published courtesy of the Out There Travel Guide
Arabuko-Sokoke Forest is the last large piece of indigenous coastal forest left in Kenya. Covering an area of 400km², it’s a great place for twitchers, with over 260 species of birds recorded in the forest, and is a key site for the global survival of six bird species (Sokoke Scops owl, Sokoke pipit, East Coast akalat, spotted ground thrush, Amani sunbird and Clarke’s weaver). Resident herds of elephant and buffalo provide plenty of interest and, given that you’re going to be on foot if you spot them, an adrenalin rush for those more interested in big game.

Trip up to Tsavo

Most visitors head up to Tsavo East National Park for a spot of game viewing, but the feedback from our party was mixed. Some lucky souls saw game galore, while others had a bit of a drought. That’s wild animals for you… but it’s disappointing if you’ve come all the way from the UK or Canada and see little more exciting than an antelope. Tsavo has several budget camps along the Galana River, where most of the wildlife is concentrated. Bookings can be made through the resorts.

Watamu fact file

  • When to go: Watamu’s weather depends on the trade winds, with rain expected during June and July, as well as October, November and sometimes December. The hottest months (during Kaskazi, the hot north-eastern trade winds) are from December through to April, then the wind changes to the Kusi, the cool, wet southern trades.
  • Where to stay: A beach house. Renting a beach house is cheap, even when using the rand, and the spacious properties come complete with a chef and other staff. You order the food — much of it local seafood and fruit — and your chef conjures up wonderful meals, then clears it all away afterwards. Heaven! Aqua Ventures manages a three-bedroom house that’s extremely convenient and affordable. For other beach houses visit www.watamu.net
  • Other accommodation options:
    • Ocean Sports, a very popular drinking hole and restaurant, is now under new ownership and management and has recently undergone a facelift. Expect good food, and their Sunday seafood buffet lunch is legendary.
    • Turtle Bay Beach Club has 145 air-conditioned, en suite rooms set among 10 acres of tropically landscaped gardens, a huge swimming pool, a supervised Kids’ Club, meals, drinks and all manner of day and night entertainment included in your package.
    • Hemingway’s Resort, a member of the Leading Small Hotels and Resorts, offers the most luxurious accommodation in town and is the choice of many honeymooners.
  • Find out more useful tourism info from www.watamu.net