Surfing Mozambique

Anton and I had been planning our camping surf trip for the last few months. Neither of us had been to Mozambique before and had no idea what to expect. We’d kitted out our 4x4 with all the latest gadgets and gear we thought we might need for the off-road trip. And so it was with our quiver of surfboards tightly fastened to the roof of our Mitsubishi Colt, boxes crammed with supplies, a fully stocked fridge and Jack Johnson playing over the radio, that we headed eagerly on towards Ponto Do Ouro.

The six-and-a-half kilometre sand track from the border to Ponto is a maze of tyre tracks with mostly two to six tracks to choose from at any time. Children ran alongside our vehicle, while men and women waved as we made our way through the little village ahead of our campsite. On arrival we were greeted by a man named Lucky who offered to help us set up camp. We warily accepted, but soon discovered this was a basic service much like car guarding is in South Africa. Lucky was also available to wash dishes, guard our camp, bring us fresh water and generally help out for about R50 per day. We decided not to be lazy.

While we were greeted by smiling locals and well-shaded camp sites, the surf was not so accommodating. The rain was still spitting, the wind howling, and the waves flat. Not to be defeated, we decided to take in the sights by exploring local villages. Not once were we approached by a beggar, although pirated DVDs were in abundance, as was firewood and fresh seafood.

On the outskirts of the village, overlooking the sea, we found remnants of houses abandoned before building was completed following the war of independence (1962—1975) and almost two decades of civil war ending in 1992. Not having roads to transport materials has slowed down development of this rustic settlement. Landmines, a common hazard in Mozambique, are also still a problem but as long as you stay within the tourist areas and drive along the designated sand tracks you should be safe.

The men in grey suits

Before our trip, we’d been warned about another hazard: sharks. But after speaking to lifeguards and locals this was not entirely warranted. Sharks were present but had not caused any problems in the last 12 years. What we had to be careful of, however, was the number of jet-skis and boats launching into the Ponto bay every day. In Mozambique you need a permit to launch a boat or jet-ski but there are no limits as to how many can launch at one time. We knew surfing from the point would be fun — but paddling back to the line-up across boats’ paths might not be.

Two days later, we didn’t care about how we were going to paddle back: we were wondering if we’d actually get a chance to surf at all. The rain continued and the onshore wind was now blowing at gale-force. All we could do was wait.

Mother Nature was having a giggle at our expense

The following night the wind changed. Now it blew from the opposite side of the bay and with even more force. It felt like Mother Nature was having a giggle at our expense. In the moonlight we could see giant storm clouds approaching at pace. We tugged at our tent pegs to check their grip and then fell asleep, silently wondering if our camp would be there the next morning.

A sound like water rushing over pebbles broke the silence of my sleep. Was it just the wind in the pine trees above, or could it be waves crashing on the shore nearby? I realised the wind had stopped. Within minutes we were waxing our surfboards and leaping into the waves. Wetsuit-free we paddled out to the furthest reef as the sun came up. The surf was still very small, but we weren’t complaining! With only one day left of our trip, waiting for the perfect wave was not an option. We paddled for any small peak and rode them for as long as the swell allowed us. We were in long-boarding paradise, warm water, no crowds, and at this time of the morning, no boats! By 9am when the wind came up, we were scoffing down well-deserved banana pancakes.

Surfing Ponto Do Ouro’s right hand point reef breaks isn’t the only option if you are looking for adventure:

• The reef also offers some of the world’s best diving and snorkelling. Visitors can choose from a number of dive schools within close proximity to the beach.
• At the “swim with the dolphins” programme run by Dolphin Encounters, groups are taken out on a rubber duck to look for schools of dolphins swimming up and down the coast. Once they are spotted you have a chance to swim alongside them and watch them from underwater with your snorkelling gear.
• Fishing from the shore is also a popular activity. Watching Anton cast his line into the windswept waves I knew he was secretly hoping to catch a barracuda or a red snapper, but with a 14-foot fishing rod and a dinky hook, that wasn’t likely! Instead we opted for a kilogram of prawns sold to us by a local woman for R70.
  Courtesy of...

  Shape Magazine
  
• The nearby villages are also worth a visit and gave us the chance to put our 4x4 driving skills to the test. Five kilometres north of Ponto Do Ouro is Ponto Maloganel, and 13km on you’ll find Ponta Mamoli. We stopped at a “shebeen” along the road near the village of Ponto Malogane. The owner, Lorenzo, immediately greeted us, shaking both of our hands. We felt welcomed by his friendliness and inspired by his effort to make us feel at home. We chatted like old friends while sipping on our Dois M beers.