"We won’t come back till we get something," promised Rusty, loading six fishing rods into the boat as it yanked and jerked at its anchor, as if eager to get its teeth into the Mozambique Channel's choppy waters off Matemo Island.

Just hours earlier our Cessna Grand Caravan had dropped out of the surprisingly calm tropical skies onto the runway at Matemo Island, bouncing to a halt between the palm and baobab trees. A 25-minute hop from the town of Pemba — in turn a mere three hours from Joburg on Airlink’s direct flight — had whisked us from fading provincial town to stunning palm-lined paradise.

Tourists come here for the beach and laid-back tropical life, and the island does not disappoint. 24 bungalows — thatched with dried ‘makuti’ palm fronds — are strung out like fallen coconuts around the northern tip of Matemo, offering the epitome of barefoot luxury. Out of your bungalow and onto the beach. A beach with sand so white you’ll need sunglasses, mind you.

Decorated, like the main lodge, in a subtle Arabian style, you’ll feel like a travelling sheikh under the four-poster bed draped in mozzie nets. This is five-star travelling though, so expect luxurious tubs to revel in, outdoor showers to soak up the sun and private decks to gaze off into the horizon.

Rusty was waiting…

Not for us the sloth of sun loungers and tanning though. Rusty was waiting, and rough waters or no he was determined to get us out there.

Despite his novice anglers turning the reels, Rusty knows the business and — blinking the salty spray out of his eyes — turned his gaze to the horizon, scanning for birds, and the fish we were after, hunting sardine.

Now my idea of fishing involves reclining on a grass bank, dozing off gently while waiting for some half-hearted carp to nibble the bait. But this was different.

This was a titanic struggle between man and marine; a motorised arm wrestle for a few of Neptune’s prized piscine friends. I was Hemingway's Santiago, the King Mackerel on the end of the line was his marlin. In the end though, the odds were stacked against my prized pelagic and his sashimi fate was sealed.

With the wind picking up we turned for home, and with spray whipped up by the southerly trade winds pounding over the boat it was hard to hear the line — now with 15 kilos of decidedly angry Kingfish on the end — screaming off the reel. “People tell me you can’t catch in weather like this, but we’ve shown them!” Rusty shouted over the roar of the engines as we hauled in the evening’s main course. And shown them we had.

On the wind and a prayer

It was the strong, steady trade winds that gave birth to centuries of Arab and Portuguese commerce along the coast of East Africa, pushing dhows laden with cargo — human and otherwise — to the famous ports of the Indian Ocean. Exotic trading posts like Bagamoyo, Mombasa and Zanzibar.

Heading into the deep blue...
Those self-same trade winds aren’t as kind to tourists though, whipping up the usually peaceful Indian Ocean into a meringue pie of white horses and cooling down the warm tropical waters to Garden Route temperatures. Luckily the winds falter not long after winter though, and by November the Mozambique Channel resembles a lake offering calm, warm water for guests to enjoy the swimming, snorkelling and diving the area is famous for.

The sheltered waters off the sand spit north of the main lodge is one of the best places for a dip or a snorkel, offering safe swimming on the sand and coral outcrops a little further offshore. At high tide you can even throw a lure and bag a wandering Kingfish if you’re lucky. If Rusty’s with you, chances are you will be.

Diving and snorkelling are a popular choice with guests, but to see the best of what’s on offer you’ll need to hop in a boat. Snorkellers head 10-minutes across the channel to Rolas Island, where the encircling coral reef is home to a good selection of marine life, while divers are spoilt for choice with a range of reefs to explore. Provided the wind’s not blowing, sites range from the Rolas Rainbow for beginners to Zola Ledge which plummets down to 40m.

A menagerie of old clocks keeps time until the next delicious meal

With dhows plying the waters off the island throughout the day, it’s no surprise that the main lodge is decorated in an Arabian style with a laid-back tropical touch. Moroccan lamps cast a kaleidoscope of colours on the walls come evening, throw cushions and rugs adorn the comfortable bar area, hookah pipes beg to be smoked after dinner and a menagerie of old clocks keeps time until the next delicious meal.

And what a meal it will be.

The view from your table
Travellers come here for the seafood and are not be disappointed. Lunches are usually a la carte, with a selection of light meals offering up to five courses for the gluttonous, but dinners are the real highlight. Get into the mood with a drink in the bar beforehand, where you can swop stories from the day — and enjoy some fresh sashimi if Rusty’s worked his magic — before heading up for dinner.

The menu changes daily, so you could either be offered a selection of dishes from the menu, or a buffet bursting with crayfish, prawns and crab. While you may raise an eyebrow at the plentiful small crayfish on offer, it’s good to hear that lodge manager Louis Korb is doing what he can to educate local fishermen about sustainable harvesting from the sea.

Apart from supporting local fishermen and providing much-needed employment on the island, the lodge also offers regular tours to nearby villages offering visitors a glimpse of how the locals live. Much could still be done with setting up a local craft market, but you can pick up a bolt of cloth or two if you still need to stock up on souvenirs.

Not that you’ll need much to remind you of your stay. With beach bucketfuls of barefoot luxury and friendly, down-to-earth staff who are as happy showing you how to cast a lure off the rocks as sharing a drink and island anecdotes at the bar, any time spent on Matemo will be etched into your memory for years to come.

    For more info…
  • Visit the Matemo Island Resort website for more information and to book.
  • Airlink flies direct from Johannesburg to Pemba twice weekly, on Tuesdays and Saturdays. For more information on Pemba and the airline's 25 other destinations, visit www.flyairlink.com or call 011 961 1700.
  • Kaskazini Tours are as close as you’ll get to an information bureau in Pemba, and can assist with booking anything from accommodation and tours to flights. Their website should be your first stop when planning a trip to the area.