OK, so Edward George Bulwer-Lytton may have penned those words 170-odd years before me, but his description of a winter storm lashing down fits just as well for my stay at Kleine Zalze Estate on the fringes of Stellenbosch, even if his lamps were in London and mine in the cosy confines of award-winning restaurant Terroir.
The concept of terroir is one that's usually applied to wine, rather than food, but as winner of the Eat Out Restaurant of the Year 2007 title it's obvious that executive chef Michael Broughton knows what he's doing. Surprisingly under-stated for one of South Africa's top restaurants, the interior of Terroir – especially on such a dark and stormy night – is more of a cosy dining room than award-winning eatery. It's a lack of pretence and a healthy dollop of down-to-earth hospitality that carries through to the food.
Sticking to the philosophy of respecting the terroir, ingredients on the French-Meditterranean menu are all sourced locally to ensure the dishes reflect the magnificent setting in the picturesque Stellenbosch winelands. With ever-changing local ingredients comes an ever-changing menu, ensuring that locals keep on coming back for more of the kitchen wizardry dreamed up by Broughton.
Top of the list is sure to be Slow Baked Belly of Pork with Apple — one of the few permanent fixtures on the menu — which is an old favourite cooked to perfection that simply melts in the mouth. White Truffle Risotto and Duck Pancake with Fig Jam are other great choices, but with just 6/7 options for each course you won't go wrong with whatever you choose.
Surrounded by the winelands, the wine-list has a good selection of local offerings, but there's no reason not to respect the terroir (there's that phrase again!) and choose one of Kleine Zalze estate's own releases. Wine has been produced on this family-owned estate since 1695, and the exceptional vineyards of the Stellenbosch winelands have produced some award-winning wines.
If you're celebrating, the delicious Family Reserve Shiraz is simply outstanding, offering a mouthful of blackberries and peppery spiciness with beautifully soft tannins. The Family Reserve Cab Sav is also worth tasting, as is the Barrel Fermented Chardonnay in the second-tier 'Vineyard Selection' range.
After all that indulgence, the last thing you'll want to do is travel any distance home again. The Stellenbosch area is filled with B&Bs and self-catering cottages, but with the four-star Kleine Zalze Lodge just 50 metres away you'll be hard-pressed to travel any further.
Lining the stunning par-four first of the De Zalze golf estate (more on that later) the 47 stylish rooms of the Kleine Zalze Lodge enjoy panoramic views of the Stellenbosch Mountains, vineyards and the course. Cosy fireplaces for chilly winter evenings and wonderful terraces for summer sundowners ensure that the lodge is a home-away-from-home no matter what the weather. Full-size kitchens in the suites (with microwave, dishwasher, cutlery and crockery) also mean that you can self-cater during your stay, but with Broughton's kitchen just a well-fed wander down the driveway I can't imagine why you'd want to.
Besides, you'll want to celebrate your day on the course in style, as Kleine Zalze is home to one of South Africa's hidden gems when it comes to 18 holes of exasperation and ecstasy. Designed by the wily Peter Matkovitch, the De Zalze course is quirky round of 18 which used to be part of the Spier Estate down the road. Now with housing estate, the Kleine Zalze winery and the award-winning Terroir, it's a favourite for both locals and visitors alike.
Torrents of rain from the dark and stormy night, and a river breaking its banks onto the first fairway, put paid to any chance of hacking my way around 18, but that time will come. For now, I'm happy enough to sit back and enjoy another glass of the delicious Vineyard Selection Chardonnay and soak up the… terroir.