It just didn't bode well for a relaxed lunch at one of the winelands' most appealing restaurants. Not well at all. Franschhoek is justifiably famous for the incredible recipes the valley's chefs dream up, but as far as a leisurely weekend lunch goes, this one was sure to cause heartburn.

Take one elderly Dutch tourist and one hire car. Add a shiny new RunX — parked innocently, I might add — belonging to yours truly. Collide at speed, and sprinkle with assorted wing mirrors from five other parked cars.

No, that recipe is definitely not going to become a firm favourite with many visitors to the 'French corner'.

So more's the credit to Le Verger — the wonderful 'orchard restaurant' at Le Franschhoek Hotel & Spa — for transforming a disastrous Saturday morning into one of the best summer afternoons I've had for a long, long time. It's a curious thing really. I've been to Franschhoek dozens of times over the last few years, but have never, not once, hit the famous Huguenot Monument and turned right. Left, yes, for the wonderful bubbly at Haute Cabriere, but never right. Granted, if Boekenhoutskloof offered public tastings of their award-winning Shiraz things may have been different.

But I digress. Tucked away along a picturesque country road that seems far removed from the glitzy boutiques of Franschhoek is Le Franschhoek Hotel & Spa.

With 79 bedrooms on offer, the hotel is certainly one of the biggest in the Franschhoek valley and is well-suited to larger groups (as the bus or two outside could attest to), but the layout of the hotel manages to disguise the fact that there could be another 180-odd guests rambling about.

With thatched roofs and a number of wings, the hotel has more the feeling of a spread out estate than large hotel… about the only time you'll be reminded that you're in a large hotel is when tucking into the substantial breakfast buffet.

Rooms offer all the mod-cons (air-con, satellite, mini-bars) you'd expect from a hotel of this size, while the larger suites boast balconies and king size beds. Staying with the family? Book a villa or one of the 16 self-catering suites to create a home away from home.

Music in your mouth

With so many great restaurants just minutes away, it's a brave move for a hotel to offer not one, but two dining options for guests. Luckily, both of them make the grade with ease.

Relais Gourmand is the hotel's à la carte fine-dining option, offering what Executive Chef Gerard Van Staden likes to call 'Mozart food'.

“If Mozart wrote a piece of music, there were always many instruments which came together to create the perfect concerto. My buzz with flavours is if you can put 10 or 12 flavours on a dish this is Mozart on a plate! The skill is in pulling it off.”

Music in the mouth it may be, but the presentation of dishes like Salmon Tartare on Marinated Leek with White Wine Vinaigrette and Tempura Giant Prawns was without doubt where van Staden hits the high notes. A pity then that the service does not match up to the food… more training is certainly needed for that section of the orchestra.

Great food aside, the evening's entertainment came from watching what dazzling creation would emerge next from behind the kitchen doors. The rosette of sole — with bony spine used in a flourish — was without doubt the high note of the evening.

My Own Private Orchard

With experience alongside legendary chef Garth Stroebel in the kitchen of Cape Town's Mount Nelson Hotel as well as stints in Dublin, Durban and Singapore, it's no surprise that the menu is an eclectic mix of European and Asian influences coupled with fresh local produce. This fusion is what comes to the fore in Le Verger… the restaurant capable of salvaging the worst bad mood!

Set amongst a charming orchard of fruit trees, lunch at Le Verger has instantly become one of my Franschhoek favourites, offering a completely unique dining experience. Tables at Le Verger are not mere tables, but private greenhouses with roll-up sides allowing the winelands breezes — and views — to waft in while you enjoy your plate from the buffet.

"Buffet?" I hear you gasp? Well, this isn't your usual chicken à la king and stodgy lasagne buffet. Billed as 'bistro meets Afro-Asian street-market', Le Verger easily offers the best buffet meal I've eaten. It might not be a la carte, but the emphasis is on cooking “a la minute”, with various chef stations whipping up a meal on the spot.

The restaurant offers a fresh veggie and salad table for starters (don't fill up on the Italian breads), a wonderful tandoori section (also offering some of the best curry I've had in Cape Town), an Asian stir-fry (eat your fill of succulent calamari and prawns), grill station (vegetarians beware) as well as a wood-fired pizza oven. “Freshness, flavour and fun are the key,” says Gerard.

And fun it certainly is. Creating your own meal, wonderful winelands views, even better wine from the reasonably-priced list, being serenaded by an accordion player and enjoying your own private orchard. What more could you ask for to salvage an afternoon? Tandoori and Asian might not be what you'd expect from a winelands restaurant, but it's down-to-earth, relaxed and honest… things that Franschhoek could do with a little more of.

    For more info…
  • Visit www.lefranschhoek.co.za to find out more.
  • Le Verger also has a great deli attached where you can stock up on kitchenware and delicacies to take home. The restaurant is open for lunch and dinner from Tuesday - Sunday.