When Dutch settlers originally came upon this peaceful valley they called it Het Land van Waveren — the land of waves — after the lush plains of grass that billowed in the summer south-easterly wind. The grass may have gone, but the valley is still as lush as it was 300 years ago with fruit tree orchards and vineyards now covering the valley floor and lower slopes of the impressive Winterhoek mountains.

Probably the most famous winery in the valley is Twee Jonge Gezellen. Named for the Two Young Bachelors who once farmed in the area, they have long since been replaced by the Krone family, who now oversee the estate's production of white wines and local champagne; méthode cap classique. Taking pride of place on the tasting table is the 'Krone Borealis' cap classique and if you pay a visit on a Saturday morning one of the family members will happily take you down into the maturation cellar, where up to 200 00 bottles are stored, to explain the process that produces some of the country's best bubbly.

On the other side of the valley is the equally historic Oude Drostdy, home of the ubiquitous Drostdyhof Claret. Loved by students everywhere, the wines of Drostdyhof are more for casual quaffing than fine dining, but a visit to the historic Drostdy, dating back to the early 1800s, is worth a visit in itself for the panoramic views over the valley.

A designer dorpie?

Back in town the village seems surprisingly two-faced. If you arrive on a Saturday morning, as we did, you'll be astonished to discover your typical Boland 'dorpie' in the throes of the weekend shopping rush. Farm workers pile onto trucks laden with groceries for the week, while farmers hurtle back and forth in dust-covered bakkies. Come lunchtime though, the town empties out and the main street is left to the tourists browsing the sprinkling of décor shops (try La Foi for interesting original ironwork) and debating where to head to for lunch.

Most likely you'll find them at Paddagang, one of the town's best venues for an al fresco bite to eat. With thick vines offering shade from the searing summer sun it's the perfect place to sit back and enjoy a chilled bottle of wine (Theuniskraal Riesling, another prominent local estate, comes highly recommended) and some of the traditional Boland cuisine that Paddagang prides itself on.

Disappointingly the main restaurant is closed during winter, with just a coffee shop menu on offer, but in peak season the restaurant offers local delights such as smoor snoek, waterblommetjie bredie and bobotie. The menu is reasonably priced, and with wines selling at little more than estate prices there's no excuse not to share a bottle or two over lunch.

If you're determined to fit in some sightseeing after lunch, the historic Church Street, Tulbagh's main attraction, is just a few steps away. Although most of the buildings are restorations (the originals were destroyed in the 1969 quake), nearly every house in the street is a national monument and it is certainly one of the most picturesque roads in the Boland.

The Earthquake Museum, which isn't quite as exciting as it sounds, has some interesting photos of the quake damage and an informative display about the restoration process. Right next door to the museum is the information bureau, where the friendly staff are on hand to point you in the right direction if you need advice. The Oude Kerk just across the road is also worth a visit — a R5 ticket gets you into both the Earthquake Museum and the Oude Kerk.

A warm Celtic welcome

Given the old Dutch history of the town, an authentic British pub is probably the last thing you'd expect to find in this corner of the country. However, since Dian and Ron Hamilton opened The Old Tulbagh Hotel a few years ago visitors to the town can now enjoy genuine gastro-pub dining in the Boland.

Renovated and run in the style of a traditional English pub with rooms above, the warm welcome and well-stocked bar (punters come for miles to enjoy the range of hand-drawn ales) it feels a little like stepping into an episode of 'Cheers'. In Ireland, of course. If you want to spend the night there are five individually decorated rooms upstairs, each offering king-size beds, complimentary mini-bars and lots of wonderful personal touches to make you feel right at home.

As comfy as the rooms are though, the place to spend the evening is downstairs in the Shamrock and Thistle Pub, settled into a comfy armchair with a pint of Old Speckled Hen or a glass of wine from the nearby vineyards. Part of the charm is watching this family operation at work, and while Ron pours the pints out front Diana is usually hard at work in the kitchen. The menu, which changes daily, is a lovely mix of pub favourites (hake and chips) and the more adventurous home-cooking that gastro-pubs are known for.

Tulbagh, thankfully, isn't quite as developed as its more glamorous winelands cousins, but there's still more than enough to keep you busy for a few days. Whether it's sampling local wine estates, exploring décor shops or enjoying the warm Celtic welcome at The Tulbagh Hotel, you'll definitely find something to make the earth move for you.

For more info...

• Tulbagh is roughly 1½ hours drive from Cape Town. For more information about the town, visit www.tulbagh.net.
• The Old Tulbagh Hotel is situated on the main street of Tulbagh and has five rooms available. All of the rooms are en-suite and offer king-size beds, TV/DVD, hospitality tray and complimentary mini-bar. Downstairs, the Shamrock and Thistle pub offers real ales, fine wines and the largest range of Scottish single malt whisky in town! For more information and to book, visit www.tulbaghhotel.co.za or call Ron/Diana on (+27 23) 230 0071.