Like the rest of the country this pretty Grecian bay hasn’t escaped property mania and the number of spec houses popping up is a little worrying. Moving a mile or so up the coast from Paternoster, the road ends in a cul-de-sac at Tieties Bay, a pristine part of the world deriving its name, not from the female anatomy, as some may think, but apparently from a fisherman called Titus who had the misfortune of drowning in the bay.

Here are two great options for enjoying the beauty without the crowds.

Columbine Nature Reserve, Paternoster
Snapshot: Coastal reserve with a rustic campsite
Where: 3km from Paternoster
Sleeps: 70 stands for tents & caravans
Braai: yes
Meals available: no
Pet-friendly: no
Activities: whale watching, birdwatching, walking, fishing, swimming, spring flowers
Rate guide: Under R50pp

Every now and then one stumbles across an exception to the general rule of ‘progress’. Columbine Reserve, or Tieties Bay, as it is commonly known, is one such exception. Nature as God intended it, evangelises Mr Dekker, a State-employed official who has passionately nursed Tieties over many years, from a place of drunken weekend mayhem to its present tidy state.

His feelings on development are clear: "I am so green, I'll kill them," referring to anyone who dares to lay a finger on his beloved Reserve. We believe him, and so should you. The beauty of a weekend at Tieties is the raw simplicity of the experience. There are no chalets and no hot water or electricity: just 70 sites on the seafront for either tent or caravan.

The only luxury you’ll encounter is 11 flushing toilets, six showers and cold water on tap — a commodity that was trucked in until quite recently. Spring flower season and December to Easter are the reserve's high season, so it is a good idea to work around these periods, or head out during the week to experience Tieties' solitude.

The Beach Camp, Paternoster
Snapshot: Rustic beach camp in the Columbine Nature Reserve, with A-frame huts and tents
Where: outskirts of Paternoster
Sleeps: all 2 (camp sleeps 23 total)
Equipped: communal kitchen available
Linen: no
Towels: no
Fireplace: communal
Braai: yes
Meals available: yes
Pet-friendly: no
Activities: whale watching, walking, swimming, stargazing, spring flowers, restaurants, fishing, canoeing, birdwatching
Rate guide: R100pp - R150pp

It's not quite a backpackers and it's not quite a campsite. The Beach Camp is a bit of both. On approach it's a raw and rustic encampment of A-frame huts and army-style tents sitting cheek by jowl under army green shade-cloth and a collection of flotsam and jetsom.

The location is prime, a secluded site right on the water's edge in the Columbine Nature Reserve, and the general picture is a scene out of the classic TV series, M*A*S*H — but instead of Vietnam, this particular episode has been shot on a prime slice of SA coastline. If you're looking for five-star comfort, The Beach Camp is definitely not for you! You have been warned...

But if you are seeking something completely laid-back and sociable, a camping experience with a few home comforts added to the mix, then you will love this unique spot. Holding it all together is your friendly host, Sonya. Besides taking care of a steady stream of young international travelers, who are drawn by the general setting, good honest value and novelty of the experience, she also doubles up as your sea kayaking guide and chief cook for the weekend. The choice is yours whether to go the independent route or enjoy the convenience of a semi-catered stay.

Wholesome cooked breakfasts and suppers are available, but there is an equipped communal kitchen under canvas, and several spots where you can do your own braaing. There is also a sociable bar with ice-cold beer (you will need it in summer, when the bar is the only escape from the heat and wind). Like everything else at The Beach Camp, it's totally chilled. There's even a man-size katty planted a few feet away — your chance to relive the Battle of Waterloo.

Your sleeping quarters are rough and ready, but clean. The choice is between one of many dome tents or the 'deluxe' A-frame huts that sit a few feet from the lapping Atlantic waters and are equipped with two single beds and decent mattresses (according to a happy French couple we interviewed) - just bring your own sleeping bag or duvet.

Sea-kayaking, bird-watching, exploring the 263ha reserve and visiting the lighthouse, dipping into the icy water, popping into Paternoster for a meal on the town, and general lazing about doing nothing in particular, will fill your time at the Camp. As the blurb states, life is a beach, then you braai.

For more information and booking enquiries for the above properties, visit www.budget-getaways.co.za