As it normally happens with women, I got up one morning and decided that the dining room needed a new look immediately. I stumbled onto such an interesting paint, one which you can use to give your walls (and more) a brand new feel, look and texture.

I decided to do the walls of the dining room with a cementitious and antiquing paint. This produces a final finish that has a depth, movement and warmth and gives the impression that the product has been trowelled on and allowed to age over time. The way you apply the product creates distinct effects, such as rust-like yellowing or staining due to tobacco fumes.

Alternatively, using a trowel, you can create darker and lighter areas which suggest movement and a marble-like finish.

Painting the wall

First inspect the surface and make sure that it is free from flaking and powdering. Where there is flaking, the surface must be thoroughly scraped, wire brushed, patched and/or skimmed. It should then be treated with two coats of paint bonding liquid mixed with 50% turpentine. Allow six hours between coats and allow the surface to dry for 24 hours.

Apply the distemper after thoroughly mixing the contents of the container. Apply two coats, again allowing six hours between coats. Allow the final coat to dry for 24 hours. The coverage of the paint is approximately 8m2 per litre per coat.

After 24 hours the fun (or muscle building period) begins. This is definitely not for ‘sissies’, so be aware that when you start with the antiquing you are not allowed to stop. You start at the top of one side of the wall and finish on the other side at the bottom. It is also better that you do it alone. The strokes you use are different from another person and this will be noticed on the finished wall.

Apply the antiquing liquid with a distemper brush, maintaining a ‘windscreen wiper’ or constant ‘trowel motion’. First cut around all the doors, window frames, ceiling and skirting. Complete the entire wall in one operation, maintaining a wet edge at all times to avoid unsightly join marks. Use very little liquid on the brush, you will still get far with each dip of the brush. The spread rate is 12m2 per litre.

Tip: When ordering distemper and antiquing liquid, order 5 litres of distemper and 1 litre of antiquing liquid.

Painting a cabinet

During a budget crisis I bought the most horrible and cheap looking pine cabinet at a pawn shop. Here again I had great fun using the milk paint – it is so easy and fast.

I thought milk paint only came in white, but I was wrong – there are a number of colours from which to choose. Milk paint is one of the most traditional finishes, popular in the 18th and 19th centuries, and was used on Shaker and country-style furniture. Made from milk mixed with pigment it produces subtle, mellow colours. Milk paints were traditionally used to protect and decorate woods, achieving a soft, mottled appearance which ready mixed, modern paints can rarely match.

When you are painting new wood, it is usually unnecessary to apply an undercoat on. Unfortunately, my cupboard was covered with lots of old varnish, but I quickly sanded it off and polished the wood. Wipe down the surface with a damp cloth, as the surface must be free of dust, grease, salt, dirt and the like.

Paint the entire surface with the first coat of paint and when it is dry, rub it down with steel wood. You can apply a second coat, but I found that one did the trick. Tip: When your table or cabinet is in a heavy traffic area it is probably best to seal it. Without a sealer the paint will water spot and absorb dirt. It is recommended to apply three coats of sealer 48 hours after the final coat of milk paint. Wait approximately two hours between each coat of sealer and don’t paint after 4pm or in rainy or humid weather.

Painting pots

The very-much-in-fashion rust paint can be used to good effect to decorate pots. Buying such rusted décor items at garden centres costs a fortune. With this paint you can quickly and easily give new life to outdated pots or ornaments in your house. Believe me, I even used it on an old melamine cupboard of mine.

Rust kits are supplied in a pack consisting of:

  • Rust paint undercoat that can be applied over nearly any surface, such as wood or plastic provided it is free of grease, oil and dust.
  • Rust paint (blue/grey gel containing iron filings)
  • Three oxidising agents to produce a yellow, red or brown rust effect.

Apply one or two coats of the rust paint undercoat depending on the porosity of the surface. Allow the paint to dry for at least six hours. Apply the rust paint as desired – either over the total surface, or if you only want a partial rust effect, apply it to the areas where you want it to look rusted. Let the rust paint dry until tacky, approximately 20-30 minutes after application.

Using a soft brush sponge or fine spray bottle, apply the oxidisers, where desired. The more fun you have the more interesting your effect will be. The different colours develop within 24 hours. To stop the colours from developing further it is advisable that you apply a sealant.

Caution: These products are acidic and gloves and safety glasses should be worn. If contact with eyes occurs wash immediately with water and consult a doctor as soon as possible.