Perfume do's and don'ts

The complex olfactory world of perfumes is confusing at the best of times. You were opting for subtle floral notes with a hint of feminine mystery, but seem to be stuck with the overpowering stench of your great aunt Agnes's potpourri collection.

Yip, you're that person — people give you a wide space and wrinkle their noses with distaste when you get too close. Like bad fashion, the wrong perfume choices can lead to a mild form of social ostracism. Hmm… okay, so maybe it's not that bad — but it could be.

So, lest you become a social pariah (and smell bad to boot), we've come up with a comprehensive guide to all that you need to know about smelling absolutely gorgeous.

Eeny, meeny, miny, moe

Contrary to what advertisers would have you believe, Nicole Kidman in a glamorous evening gown is not a good reason to buy a perfume. You will probably never look that good, no matter what perfume you wear.

It's also a bad idea to buy something because it smelt good on your best friend or that little paper tester strip. Perfume reacts with your skin and therefore smells slightly different on everyone.

Buying perfume requires patience — lots of it. You shouldn't try more than three perfumes on any given occasion, because your nose loses its ability to distinguish between the subtleties.

Spray a different perfume on each wrist and leave the shop or at least the perfume section. Wait five minutes before deciding whether you like either of the perfumes.

Avoid testing out a new perfume for a couple of days after eating spicy or garlicky food (unless this is your normal diet) as this will influence the scent.

Subtle notes of blah blah…

Distinguishing the subtle notes of a fragrance can be about as confusing as wine tasting, but scents can be divided into five basic groups.

• Floral: Think roses, jasmine, lavender (duh!). These fragrances are great if you want to feel pretty and feminine and can be worn by women of all ages for almost all occasions. Examples include Sunflowers by Elizabeth Arden and Calvin Kline's Escape.
• Fruity: Fun and flirty, these fragrances are fresh and often a bit spicy. Suitable for both warm and cold weather, these are slightly more youthful fragrances. Examples include DKNY's Be Delicious and Cheap & Chic by Moschino.
• Woody: With their earthy tones of sandalwood, patchouli and cedar, woody fragrances are better suited to the more mature woman who likes a hint of sophistication. These fragrances work better in the cooler months and in the evenings. Examples include Lovely by Sarah Jessica Parker and Organza by Givenchy.
• Greens: Think freshly-cut grass and the crispness of spring. Greens are perfect for casual wear and generally a little bit funky or sporty. More suitable for the younger woman, examples include Versace Metal Jeans Women and Revlon's Charlie.

• Oriental: With their rich, sensual undertones, these are the glamour fragrances. Heady flowers mingle with musk, vanilla and oriental resins to create a fragrance that is perfect for evenings and special occasions. Often incorporating qualities from the other categories, oriental fragrances can be worn by women of all ages. Examples include Chance by Chanel and Estee Lauder's Intuition.

Perfume is seasonal and what works well at night may be a little overpowering during the day, so try experimenting a little. If you can only afford one bottle of perfume, rather opt for one which can be worn through all seasons and for most occasions (floral or fruity).

Less is more

Repeat after me: less is more. When it comes to quantity this is the golden rule — your perfume is only meant for two people, yourself and anyone who comes with two or three feet of your personal space.

If it can be smelt by anyone not within an arm's length of you, you are wearing too much. You will quickly become accustomed to the scent of your own perfume, but this doesn't mean that others can't smell it.

How much fragrance you apply depends largely on your type of 'perfume'. The strength of the perfume is determined by the essential oils in the fragrance — the higher the percentage of essential oils, the stronger the scent. Price tends to be directly proportional too.

Eau de cologne or eau de toilette contains the least essential oil and usually lasts for about two hours. Eau de parfum has slightly more and can last for up to five hours, while parfum (perfume) can last longer than six hours. If you are using eau de toilette, you can be more liberal in your application than if you are using parfum.

To get the most out of your fragrance apply it to one (or two) of the following pulse points — ankles, behind your knees, wrists, crook of your elbow, cleavage or the nape of your neck.

One spritz per pulse point should be sufficient. Let the fragrance dry naturally without rubbing it in. Alternatively, spray some perfume onto your hairbrush and run the fragranced brush through your hair.

Do:

Don't:

Finally, remember that some situations call for complete fragrance restraint. These include (but are not limited to) wine-tasting, gym and a yoga class.

Storage solutions

There is no point having a collection of beautiful perfumes if you don't store them properly. Most fragrances have a lifespan of approximately three years from the date of manufacture, so remember to check this date when buying your perfume.

You will be able to tell if your perfume has become spoiled or deteriorated, because it will thicken, become slightly darker and have a stronger and sharper scent.

Perfume should be stored in a cool (room temperature), dark, dry place. Dressing tables, window sills and the bathroom cupboard are out, but keeping them on a shelf in your wardrobe or in a box is fine. If your perfume does not have a spray top, make sure that the lid is always firmly on as the perfume can deteriorate with air exposure.