Friday saw day one of Sanlam Joburg Fashion Week, where designers showcased their winter collections. Thamar Houliston takes a look at what's hot on the ramps this year...

It's day one of Sanlam Joburg Fashion Week in Newton Jozi. Held at Museum Africa, the space is a fitting one for the patchwork of local designers who are showcasing their winter collections and an ideal environment for students and crafters to learn the trade, with the museum being a place not only conducive to creativity but one steeped in history.

And some of the designs are certainly reflected in the museum's minor collection of fashion from a bygone era — or is it the other way round?

Impeccable craftsmanship

De Mil's collection for example, was awash with military allusion, men's waistcoats with buckles and belts being the 'it' item paired with fitting skinny leg pants. A somewhat new-age addition included pointy patent leather shoes. Defined by impeccable craftsmanship — no stitch out of place — the collection is not only unique but classy.

Abigail Betz is another name which most definitely deserves a mention, especially when one is talking quality. Velvety three-quarter length high-collared coats in rich colours like army green and luminous pink (contrasted by cute red heels) are simply gorgeous in the 'I want to touch and feel' kind of way. Meanwhile her frilly frocks in white are simple interpretations of the wedding dress which conjure images of an era of ox wagons.

As usual Superella by Ella Butler was an emotional journey draped in coarse fabrics. The models were old women who wore the nothing other than comfortable garments with great finesse. Her designs won't appeal to the majority, but the fabrics certainly will.

Back to the future

The Story collection brought us back to the present with high-waisted women's pants, tight-fitting silk skirts and polo necks all in grays and blacks. The edge came with the addition of rubber to the collection. All in all fitting for the confident working woman, without the rubber naturally.

Guillotine (by Lisa Jaffe) as the name dictates, was more sombre. Conservative necklines were contrasted with progressive cuts, while stiff fabrics were also played off against chiffons and softer fabrics in more comfortable flowing lines. Once again blacks and grays dominated with the occasional 'odd' colour thrown in.

Amanda Laird Cherry went for that 'laid back' look with unlaced sneakers defining the feel. Simple to say the least, the collection wasn't as inspiring as one might have hoped.

Tiaan Nagel's collection can only be described as a mild explosion of excellence. Something old, something new and an array of unexpected colours — ranging from navy to royal blue — added that little extra. And the main selling point — completely wearable.

Those were the standouts on day one, but day two is on it's way...

For more information about fashion week, visit www.sanlamfashionweek.co.za