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South Africa is a nation of jeans wearers. We wear them every day for both a casual work look as well as our weekend wear. We start wearing our jeans when we are tiny babies and are still pulling on the denim in our 70s and 80s.
We wear jeans more than many European countries as our style, particularly along the coast, is more laid back and our lifestyle more outdoorsy. So I think it is time that someone stepped up and set out the top 10 guidelines for our prolific use of this great American cotton twill cloth.
Fashion faux pas
One of the greatest mistakes we can make in dressing today is acknowledged to be the denim-on-denim look. This is universally recognised as one of the most common errors among both men and women, and it is when we combine our denim jeans with a denim jacket in the mistaken belief that this is a well co-ordinated and respectable outfit.
I say, unless you are a very special and stylish person, this is pretty much guaranteed to always be a lapse in your otherwise excellent judgment. So think twice. Wear your lovely shrunken denim jacket with some cords or black pants and save your other jackets to wear with your jeans.
Stylish stretch
The greatest thing to have happened since the invention of jeans is the invention of the stretch jeans, by which I do not mean the skin tight version that leaves little to the imagination of the unsuspecting public.
No, I mean the lovely silhouette offered by a well-fitting pair of jeans that hug the curves but skim over the rest. All but the very slim of ladies should always insist on a bit of stretch in her denim. This is simply due to the nature of the denim cloth, which is a very stiff fibred fabric, not allowing much movement in its natural form. So embrace the stretch and get liberated in your jeans.
Ladies perfect fit
With so many styles to choose from, it can be quite confusing when trying to select your perfect pair of jeans. Well, I think that it is time to stop trying. Ladies should have between two and four pairs of jeans in your cupboard offering you a variety of styles.
A looser fit is more casual and a pair of dark denim bootleg jeans is universally flattering for all you ladies with curves in all the right places, and very appropriate for a more relaxed work environment.
Don't hesitate to use a tailor to get your smarter jeans fitting perfectly, and remember that there is absolutely no shame in going a size up (or down) to get the jeans looking and feeling great. And remember try them on! With so many options, the more you try on, the better idea you will have about what looks good on your bod.
Gents perfect fit
For chaps, there are much more constructive guidelines. The original is always best. A classic pair of five-pocket Levis or similar is a look that will never fail you no matter what your shape.
Always go slightly loose on the fit as the stuffed sausage look is not good on anyone no matter what their lifestyle choice.
The jeans waistband should fit around your hips with a finger or two to spare.
Alternatives include a loose, wide-leg shape for a more relaxed weekend or clubbing look, or the rock-star skinny jeans look. The latter is a brilliant option for slim, reasonably young chaps, but should be done this season in charcoal or black and combined with a cardigan or shrunken leather bomber jacket. And it should be done with a wee bit of care for those on the wrong side of 35.
Logic on length
When it comes to the length of your jeans, chaps should ensure that, like most of their trousers, the jeans break on the arch of their foot.
Weekend jeans can be slightly longer as the frayed edges can be quite relaxed, but a pair worn during the week or out to a restaurant or bar should be properly hemmed and worn with a pair of shoes or boots rather than trainers.
Ladies need both the short and the long jeans lengths to ensure they can be worn with both heels and flats. This is why you need the variety in your wardrobe.
Cropped jeans are very unflattering if tight and ending mid-calf — make sure they come down to your ankle bone for the best overall impression.
Casual comfort
The point about embracing the jeans is to offer style and comfort in all your daily activities. Obviously, therefore, getting jeans that are comfortable is pretty high on the list of requirements when spending your hard earned cash on them.
Comfort can be derived from buying a softer, more worn denim — possibly go for a pair of vintage jeans in a classic shape that have been well worn in but are still in excellent condition.
Alternatively, a thinner denim that fits like a trouser can ensure easy comfort. Making sure that you have stretch and a good fit is also part of the deal, as mentioned previously.
Hating on the hipster
This one is for the ladies. Step away from the hipster. Put them down carefully and step away. Immediately. There are several reasons for this, which I am quite sure are logical, but I see I am going to have to explain to for some of you.
First, they are no longer in fashion (and haven't been for a while elsewhere in the world). Second, they make your legs look short which is the absolute antithesis of proportional representation in my world. Third, they are very, very unflattering to anyone with a set of womanly hips. They put a great big defining line around the widest part of you and make your flesh bulge over the top of them giving you a glorious 'muffin top'. So sad. And finally, they expose your underwear. Nobody wants to see your underwear — that's why they call it underwear. It is not sexy and it is not attractive. Put it away. Rant over.
Colour and decoration
We all know that denim comes in all colours these days. This does not mean we should wear it in all these colours, however. There is nothing wrong with a classic pair of white denims in the summer for both genders. Equally, black, charcoal, light and dark blue are classics that can bring variety to your wardrobe.
Venturing beyond this requires a bit of caution. The deeper the colour, the more flattering for everyone — this is a good rule of thumb. However, if you are still going to go for last season's fashion brights, then do so in a tapered leg (the less fabric the better) and ensure that you keep the rest of your ensemble in neutrals.
Decorations on pockets, knees, hips, hems, thighs and bottoms are not cool. They are not flattering. They have no place on a pair of trousers unless you are on 'Strictly Come Dancing' or attending an '80s fancy dress party'. This includes rips and tears, by the way.
What price jeans?
There is much debate around whether you should spend thousands of rands on jeans if you wear them regularly or whether it is ok to buy the R150 ones from the chain stores.
The answer is that they are both fine. But, the label on the jeans should not dictate which jeans you buy — the fit should always be the guiding light in this decision.
It is no good buying designer jeans and finding that they don't fit your particular body shape and that you are not comfortable in them. Find jeans that look great on you and are comfortable to wear all day at work and out in the evening — then consider the price and how often you will wear them. This is the only way to ensure good value for your money.
Where to wear
So finally the question of where to wear your jeans comes up a lot. I say, in South Africa, you can wear the right jeans to most places. Being careful about the length, the fit, the colour and the style, these days jeans can take you to almost anywhere. Where it is not appropriate, however, includes the following: meeting the president, most job interviews, funerals, weddings, meeting the bank manager and any event where the dress code has been specified as anything other than casual or smart casual. That would just be rude.
For more information on Robyn and her personal styling services, go to: www.robyncooke-styleguide.co.za