Lovely restaurants come in all shapes and sizes. There are times when intricate avant-garde eating is deliciously challenging but we all have days when calming and hearty is where we're at.

When the world seems harsh and exhausting, it is not foams or dégustation menus that we need. At such times it's comfort food that hits the spot. And, it's difficult to imagine a restaurant that does comfort better than the Silver Orange.

From breakfast tables set amidst the fever trees to cocktails on the deep cool stoep at dusk, Chef Patron Leon Nel consistently applies his considerable talents to alimentary nurturing.

Deeply restorative

My husband and I lurched across the threshold of the Silver Orange drained by the stresses of modern living but, after tucking into plates of the chef's meltingly tender springbok shank set on buttery mashed potato, we were ready to face the world.

I can personally attest to the fact that, however rattled the diner is on arrival at this charming bushveld restaurant, it's impossible to find the custard-laden Malva pudding anything other than deeply restorative.

The menu at the Silver Orange unashamedly offers comfort kos but it would be wrong to dismiss its soothing simplicity as unskilled or unsophisticated. So many South African chefs struggle to serve plates that are simultaneously classy and modern and yet still portray a terroir-specific identity but Leon Nel gets it right.

He serves food that is rooted in the environment in which the restaurant is situated without ever feeling folksy or contrived. There is a thoughtful use of local ingredients, flavours and recipes.

Unpretentious confidence

It is the confidence of the chef in his culinary identity that makes it so relaxing to be in his space. Whether you order the duck and fig samoosas or the garden-grown artichoke and roasted butternut salad there is an unpretentious attention to detail in the choice of flavours and their execution on the plate. No one is trying too hard and everything tastes yummy.

The service is similarly uncomplicated, efficient and eager to please. The waitresses feel trustworthy — they don't try and up sell the expensive items and they are genuinely enthusiastic in their menu recommendations. They are also extremely generous in their pouring of the wine by the glass options.

The winelist has been carefully assembled with the menu in mind. Local listings are extensive and generally well priced, with Platter three and four star labels and an emphasis on new producers over iconic estates. It is a relatively recent cellar so it lacks aged classics but it contains a comprehensive selection of current vintages.

Courtesy of...
Wine Magazine
The international sparkling wine selection includes eight Champagnes and three Cavas to complement the five local Cap Classiques. There is a chef's choice page at the front of the winelist and the chef patron is on hand to assist with selection. The wine by the glass list works well with the food on offer and is of remarkable value when one realises that the glasses (which the waitresses cheerfully fill to the brim) are so large that they could double up as goldfish bowls.

Not so secret anymore

My only complaint about this otherwise fabulous rural restaurant is that what was once my secret spot has become increasingly popular. I know it is churlish to lament the success of others but I'm sorry that it is now impossible just to pitch up and be assured of a table.

The Silver Orange is perfectly located to take advantage of the building boom at Hartbeespoort and the significant economic growth in Brits and Rustenburg. The result is that the parking lot is now packed with smart 4x4s and booking is essential.

Average cost of a three-course meal without wine: R160.

Silver Orange Bistro, R513, 400m from Mfula Junction, Hartbeespoort Tues: dinner only, Wed – Sun breakfast (Wed – Fri by appt only), lunch and dinner. BYO R35. To contact them call +27 12 253 2136.